Layered Shirt

This weeks puzzle is very much a summer weight shirt that I imagine in a cotton voile or organdie.  The semi-transparent fabric is used in many layers (2-3) to create drape and subtle colour variation in the layering.  The front opening of the shirt is a concealed, button-front hidden under the front drape.

For this design, I have started with my women’s fitted block and marked in all the planning lines for the multiple layers in the shirt.

1. Loosen off the fit in this block by adding 1cm to front and back chest side seam and 1.5-2cm each side of the hip and by softening the shape on the side seam.  Drop the underarm point by min. 1cm.
2. There is a forward shoulder line that becomes part of the back yoke.  
3. The front opening will be a concealed button opening on a placket sewn into the centre front.  
4. The major drape in the front shirt meets the edge of this front opening to further conceal.  This drape is very deep – approx. 10-12cm.
5. Mark in the shaped front hemline of the front over-layer and the left side layer that finishes just below the waist.
6. Mark in the back yoke line and the over-layer very near the waistline and connecting well with the front layers.  This layer has a large inverted pleat on the centre back line.
7. Mark in some vertical cut lines in the back for the addition of fullness in the hem.

The first stage of the pattern development is to turn my fitted block into a loose fit shape by sending the bust darts through to the hem and separating the major patten pieces, i.e. front shirt, back yoke and back shirt.  Be sure to copy the design lines through to this stage of the patten development.  Clean up (re-curve) the hem line in all layers especially the front.

Trace off all the pattern pieces, opening out the front and back patterns for tucks and drape.  I have suggested a light semi-transparent fabric for this design and would love to see a mix of fabrics between the under and over-layers to make this an even more interesting style.  All the pieces for the final pattern are featured below with cutting instructions.

Let me know if you have any questions about this pattern in the comments section below.  If you’d like to buy a copy of these pattern making notes for your own personal use at home you’ll find them here:  Layered Shirt – Pattern Making Instructions.  Enjoy 🙂