26 May Twist or Cowl Shift Dress
In working up the ideas for this weeks #PatternPuzzle, I began with the Cowl feature on the right side of a bias-cut shift, thinking I would like to use a wide stripe fabric. I really loved the idea of the bias-placed stripe running off the edge of the dress into the cowl drape. When I sketched up the first patterns I realised the dress could be featured in two different ways. This is how it happened.
The Pattern Plan is based on my fitted dress block to 5cm below the knee level.
- Firstly remove 1cm at the underarm point to 0cm at the waist to shape for a sleeveless style.
- Mark 4cm from the shoulder point to start a 5cm wide shoulder strap.
- Reshape the armholes, to the underarm point, and mark in a 1cm gape dart. This is standard for a sleeveless armhole to ensure it fits close to the body and does not gape.
- Mark in the neckline that crosses over at the CF as a ‘V’ and continues to the right armhole.
- Mark in the new dart positions – right side from waist to bust point and left side from armhole to bust point. The placement of the dart lines is to follow the bias grain of the fabric and disappear into the wide stripe of the fabric.
- Repeat the process for the back. Gape darts for the neckline are placed high on the strap and are approx. 6-8mm each.
- Extend drape from right side waist (front and back) for a 45 degree angle. Length of this line is slightly more than half-way down the length of the skirt. Angle the line back toward the right side seam at the hemline.
Below are the first sketches of the front and back dress patterns before they are pasted together. At this stage, you have the option of separating the right shoulder pieces or treating the dress as one, without the asymmetric seam at the neck.