well-suited

Pattern Puzzle | Cut The Trends | Pattern Fundamentals | Pattern Insights | Pattern Fix | First Sample | Design & Illustration | Vintage Patterns | well-suited archive

First Sample - Pinstripe Panel Skirt

Saturday, March 12, 2016
Do you remember the Pinstripe Panel Skirt?  Blogged in May 2014, and first sampled by Capital Chic, this very creative piece of corporate wear is stylish, wearable and very popular. :)Pinstripe Panel Skirt
At the time of posting I found the time to cut this pattern but not the cloth.  It's been sitting under the pattern table ever since.  So I dug it out and cut it in a light suiting pinstripe of dubious origin (by that I mean a blend of unknown origin) from my sampling box of fabrics.  I used my skirt block and the original post to cut this pattern.

The lay plan is something to behold!  Although the pattern shapes are a little weird: there are so many small pieces that they are easy to lock in together if you take a little time.  Ultimately, for this size 12, they fit into 1.3m of cloth at 150cm wide.  It's a single lay cut so be aware that you will need to chalk in two of the front and back waistband.  I used my notches (see diagram above) to do my best to get the stripes to match on some of the seams.  Be advised that it's impossible to match on ALL seams.  Many of them have been quite deliberately set at a different angle (chevron) for an interesting play with the pinstripe.  

As you cut each piece of your skirt, piece them together on the table, to help make sense of the order of assembly (sewing).

So here's what I think about matching stripes on this Pinstripe Panel Skirt:
  • Seam 5 is easy to match as it's in the middle of the same pattern piece and the panel shapes are heading in the same direction.
  • The change of grain between the two pieces for seam 2 means the pinstripe will chevron reasonably well.  
  • Seam 3 seems to go together well when matching the stripes.
  • Seam 4 between the front and the back does not exactly match but still looks ok.
  • The grain between the pieces on seam 6 chevron as they do on seam 7.  That means they won't necessarily match but will make a great pattern where they meet.
All-in-all this design is a challenge when cut in the pinstripe fabric but that's the point of the design.  To have a lot of fun with the lines in the pinstripe and bewitch the eye.  All that cutting on different grains would be lost in a plain or printed fabric.

My greatest concern is the Inverted Pleat at the end of the back left panel seam (where you see the pins).  Half the pleat allowance has no seam support and will need to be stitched through the skirt and will show on the outside.  So colour matching your thread for the this job is important.  This could be considered a weakness in manufacturing for this design.  However I'm not willing to sacrifice half the pleat as it would throw the design balance out in the back skirt.  I really enjoy the way the matching pleats come off the curved panel seams at the back.  So I'll put up with the stitching showing.  :)


The pattern alterations I required were all around the fit of the waistband so I may not be able to save the toile.  Far too much unpicking and recutting.  I'll finish it off and  send it down the road to the Salvo Stores. :)

I've made those alterations to the pattern, so I think it's time to pop that back under the worktable for another year!  
Hahaha...  watch this space!

Share this blog post:





Comments
Post has no comments.
Post a Comment




Captcha Image

Trackback Link
http://www.studiofaro.com/BlogRetrieve.aspx?BlogID=8267&PostID=659155&A=Trackback
Trackbacks
Post has no trackbacks.


RSS

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

Recent Posts



ALL MY GARMENT BLOCKS

All my garment blocks.

If you can't find what you're looking for on this blog;  try our blog archive!



About Studio Faro

The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


Back to Top