Every week new fans turn up to comment and solve my #PatternPuzzle and this week was no exception. Steph Go was in early with a comprehensive answer revealing the main parts of the pattern piece. Then Julie and Lynn turned up a little later to finish off the puzzle. This elegant evening dress is a little daring, showing lots of leg and decolletage. It will always look good in soft drapey fabrics such as silk crepe, lightweight stable knits, silk and polyester chiffon's. With a little experimentation I think it could be cut in either knit or woven fabrics. The style relies very heavily on the fit on the high hip where the twist is formed. This feature holds the entire dress in place. If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.
Starting with a woven kimono block that has a minimum of 4cm garment ease on the hip and 6cm garment ease on the bust.
- Move your NP 1.5cm to open neckline.
- Lengthen the block below the knee adding 6cm. Taper the side seams by 3cm at the hem.
- Decide the position of the twist. I have placed it 6cm below the natural waist.
- Mark a line, at this point, at right angles to the CF line, extending 7cm into the right side of the front block.
- Continue line back towards the left side seam, marking the seam line for the twist.
- Connect the far left point to the new neckline position (1.5cm from the NP (neck point).
- Connect the same point to the CF hemline.
- Mark in balance of dashed lines for adding drape, from twist to shoulder and twist to skirt.
- Create a firm fit at the high hip position by removing garment ease. To do this you will need to measure yourself at this high hip position and remove the difference.
- Rather than re-shaping the side seam I have decided to remove the extra from waist to shoulder point and waist to hip point (red shaded area). This will produce the same effect without over working the side seam shaping.
- Decide the length of your sleeve (bracelet length here), keeping in mind the width of your fabric.
- Decide your sleeve opening using a tape measure around the correct position on the arm (using 50 cm here).
- Connect the sleeve opening back to the high hip with a decent curve.