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Kimono Twist Dress

Monday, April 28, 2014

Every week new fans turn up to comment and solve my #PatternPuzzle and this week was no exception. Steph Go was in early with a comprehensive answer revealing the main parts of the pattern piece. Then Julie and Lynn turned up a little later to finish off the puzzle. This elegant evening dress is a little daring, showing lots of leg and decolletage. It will always look good in soft drapey fabrics such as silk crepe, lightweight stable knits, silk and polyester chiffon's.  With a little experimentation I think it could be cut in either knit or woven fabrics. The style relies very heavily on the fit on the high hip where the twist is formed. This feature holds the entire dress in place. If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.Pattern Making Instructions Kimono Twist Dress sewing pattern by Studio Faro.

Starting with a woven kimono block that has a minimum of 4cm garment ease on the hip and 6cm garment ease on the bust. 

  1. Move your NP 1.5cm to open neckline. 
  2.  Lengthen the block below the knee adding 6cm.  Taper the side seams by 3cm at the hem. 
  3.  Decide the position of the twist.  I have placed it 6cm below the natural waist. 
  4.  Mark a line, at this point, at right angles to the CF line, extending 7cm into the right side of the front block. 
  5.  Continue line back towards the left side seam, marking the seam line for the twist. 
  6.  Connect the far left point to the new neckline position (1.5cm from the NP (neck point). 
  7.  Connect the same point to the CF hemline. 
  8.  Mark in balance of dashed lines for adding drape, from twist to shoulder and twist to skirt. 
  9.  Create a firm fit at the high hip position by removing garment ease.  To do this you will need to measure yourself at this high hip position and remove  the difference. 
  10.  Rather than re-shaping the side seam I have decided to remove the extra from waist to shoulder point and waist to hip point (red shaded area).  This will produce the same effect without over working the side seam shaping. 
  11.  Decide the length of your sleeve (bracelet length here), keeping in mind the width of your fabric.  
  12.  Decide your sleeve opening using a tape measure around the correct position on the arm (using 50 cm here). 
  13.  Connect the sleeve opening back to the high hip with a decent curve. 
Planning the Kimono Twist Pattern Making method.
Open the bodice and skirt patterns along the dashed red lines to include extra fabric for the twist and drape.  I suggest a range of 4-8cm for each opening depending on fabric and fit.  The high hip seam is opened up toward the side seam.  This will allow you to twist the two fronts together before sewing to secure the twist. 
Manipulating the front pattern to include the extra fabric for the twist feature.
The back dress has 1.5cm waist shaping of the CB seam.  This design is probably best cut with separate front and back patterns to reduce the fabric wastage for this style.  Cutting them together does make for an interesting #PatternPuzzle but not necessarily an economical or practical pattern for manufacture.   
Front and back patterns for the Kimono Twist.
Below the pattern that combines the front and back has a number of grain line possibilities depending on the fabric you use.   If you keep the CF on the straight grain you will have the opportunity of chevron stripes on the CB seam.  Alternatively the grain line could run with the CB seam, placing much of the front drape near the bias grain.  This is a very flexible design and the outcome will largely depend on the fabric you choose and how you best use that fabric.  There are so many possibilities!   
One-piece sewing pattern Kimono Twist
 Feel free to leave your comments below and ask me any questions.  I love to hear from our fans.  Enjoy :)

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Comments
Salem Reed commented on 19-Dec-2016 11:13 AM
Hi! Love the pattern, I've been looking for it since I don't want to cut up a kimono-twist dress I own myself. Great description, I'm just a bit stuck on step 9-10, can't seem to understand what to do with the red area.. Would love to hear more :)

Anita - studiofaro commented on 19-Dec-2016 03:39 PM
Hi Salem, thanks for getting in touch. :) The red area is a reduction in the fit in the high hip or waist area so the twist works well. Fold out the red area like it is a dart. Hope this helps.
San commented on 21-Dec-2016 04:46 AM
Hello sewing family,

I would love to know how to receive your patterns so I may make some of your awesome garments.

San Harvey Facebook
San.harvey@yahoo.com
Anita - studiofaro commented on 22-Dec-2016 03:20 PM
Hi San, thx for dropping by. Patterns are on the way but not ready yet. Go to my contacts page to subscribe so you hear when the patterns are up on the site. :) http://www.studiofaro.com/contact

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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