well-suited blog - fashion design, illustration, pattern making.

Grade Rules - Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico

Thursday, February 04, 2016

Imogeena has made a special request for grading information for the Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico. This design has turned out to be very popular as a self-draft pattern but you can understand how the simple shape may make it confusing to grade for different sizes. This post has all the grade rules and specific locations (with notes) for growing the pattern. Keep Reading...

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Best Choices for Garment Pleating

Friday, January 29, 2016

For the Garment Pleating project I've settled on the fabric choices for the three designs I'll be testing. But I'm having trouble deciding on the style of pleating to use with each individual garment. Can you help me out?

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Garment Pleating - Homage to Issey Miyake

Friday, January 22, 2016

While I wait for the local pleating house to finish their summer vacation, I'm moving onto the second phase of the Permanent Pleating Series - Garment Pleating. In this series I'll be discussing whole garment pleating as originally inspired by the work of Issey Miyake (Pleats Please). Keep Reading...

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Cut, Hang and Hem before Pleating 101

Tuesday, January 19, 2016

This is the third post in the Permanent Pleating series where we're looking at the pre-pleating preparation for a Sunray Circle Skirt and Mushroom Pleated rectangle. Our first post covered the introduction to the series - Prep for Permanent Pleating 101. And the second post has all the pattern making information for both skirts; Patterns for Pleating Project 101. Keep Reading...

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Patterns for Pleating Project 101

Tuesday, January 12, 2016

In this post I'll cover the detail of drafting the patterns you'll need for this permanent pleating project, then follow with the essential pre-pleating preparation in the next post. Have a look at Prep for Permanent Pleating 101 if you'd like some background to this permanent pleating post series. Keep Reading...

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Prep for Permanent Pleating 101

Saturday, January 09, 2016

I've always had a fascination for what can be achieved with a little heat and some petro-chemical fibres. Permanent (heat-set) Pleating is the use of heat on polyester/nylon fabrics to set a pleat that will survive the rigours of wash and wear without the need of re-pressing. Keep Reading...

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Pattern Insight - Circular Knit Twist

Saturday, November 28, 2015

This entire post is inspired by my fascination with circular knits. I've not had much experience with this particular cloth but have always been hooked by the possibilities. I found this piece (slight grey marl cotton) at the back of one of the local fabric shops and grabbed a couple of meters to play with. My first idea was to try the twist, especially with a fabric that's half way to dressing you without any side seams.

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Fit Rules - Personal Block Development

Wednesday, November 18, 2015

For over 20 years I've been teaching pattern making and I swear I can teach that subject blindfolded. However recent events have me delving into an entirely new area of expertise; personal fittings. Keep Reading...

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Pattern Puzzle - Asymmetric Cowl Drape

Thursday, November 05, 2015

Elegant and flattering, this is an interesting cut in a knit fabric. By using my Knit Block or your favourite tee shirt patterns, you can self-draft the front pattern piece to drape while leaving the back and sleeve patterns exactly as they are. It's a looser shape than many drape tops and is cut with a more gentle fitting rather than hugging tight to the body. That slightly looser, non-grabby tee shirt is always flattering and much easier to wear.

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Pattern Fundamentals - Drape Skirt II

Friday, September 25, 2015

There have been a few of this variety of skirt gracing the catwalk for the past couple of years. I have also cut similar for local clients and the beauty of this design is it's simplicity for a first attempt at cutting drape patterns. The drape shape is in fact separate to the front and back patterns and acts as a decorative overlay for the front skirt. Start with my Skirt Block and follow the pattern making instructions in this post. Suggested fabrics: Crepe weaves with a transparent overlay for the front drape or a satin backed crepe where you are able to reveal the satin back in the cowl of the drape. If you are interested in Drape Skirt Patterns you can click through to our dedicated workshop and check out the detail.