well-suited blog - fashion design, illustration, pattern making.

Patterns for Pleating Project 101

Tuesday, January 12, 2016

In this post I'll cover the detail of drafting the patterns you'll need for this permanent pleating project, then follow with the essential pre-pleating preparation in the next post. Have a look at Prep for Permanent Pleating 101 if you'd like some background to this permanent pleating post series. Keep Reading...

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Prep for Permanent Pleating 101

Saturday, January 09, 2016

I've always had a fascination for what can be achieved with a little heat and some petro-chemical fibres. Permanent (heat-set) Pleating is the use of heat on polyester/nylon fabrics to set a pleat that will survive the rigours of wash and wear without the need of re-pressing. Keep Reading...

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Pattern Insight - Circular Knit Twist

Saturday, November 28, 2015

This entire post is inspired by my fascination with circular knits. I've not had much experience with this particular cloth but have always been hooked by the possibilities. I found this piece (slight grey marl cotton) at the back of one of the local fabric shops and grabbed a couple of meters to play with. My first idea was to try the twist, especially with a fabric that's half way to dressing you without any side seams.

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Fit Rules - Personal Block Development

Wednesday, November 18, 2015

For over 20 years I've been teaching pattern making and I swear I can teach that subject blindfolded. However recent events have me delving into an entirely new area of expertise; personal fittings. Keep Reading...

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Pattern Puzzle - Asymmetric Cowl Drape

Thursday, November 05, 2015

Elegant and flattering, this is an interesting cut in a knit fabric. By using my Knit Block or your favourite tee shirt patterns, you can self-draft the front pattern piece to drape while leaving the back and sleeve patterns exactly as they are. It's a looser shape than many drape tops and is cut with a more gentle fitting rather than hugging tight to the body. That slightly looser, non-grabby tee shirt is always flattering and much easier to wear.

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Pattern Fundamentals - Drape Skirt II

Friday, September 25, 2015

There have been a few of this variety of skirt gracing the catwalk for the past couple of years. I have also cut similar for local clients and the beauty of this design is it's simplicity for a first attempt at cutting drape patterns. The drape shape is in fact separate to the front and back patterns and acts as a decorative overlay for the front skirt. Start with my Skirt Block and follow the pattern making instructions in this post. Suggested fabrics: Crepe weaves with a transparent overlay for the front drape or a satin backed crepe where you are able to reveal the satin back in the cowl of the drape. If you are interested in Drape Skirt Patterns you can click through to our dedicated workshop and check out the detail.

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Fittings First - An Integrated Approach to Pattern Making

Wednesday, September 02, 2015

I have made an info-graphic to show you all what I've been up to with the workshop line-up here at the studio. Now I hear you say 'What's that to me? I live on the other side of the world! :( So to elaborate; the teaching materials I intend for the website (e-learning) are derived from the workbooks I make for each of the workshops I run here at the studio. The content and integration of that content becomes even more important when considering its use as online teaching materials. As a first step I've added my garment blocks to the website as PDF downloads.

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Pattern Puzzle - Squares & Zero Waste

Thursday, August 13, 2015

Welcome all to this somewhat delayed blog post. I am gradually catching up and would like to thank you for your patience. The idea with this puzzle was to test one of those apparently simple pattern shapes you so often find on the net. Every now and then we all come across stuff on the internet that suggests the simplest cuts will make the most flattering garments. Who can say until you have actually made the thing up. :) This pattern is based on multiple squares in a variety of sizes with a little adjustment on the stand.

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Pattern Puzzle - Drape Tube Skirt

Sunday, August 09, 2015

For this week's #PatternPuzzle, my initial idea was to make a slim jersey skirt with a #CowlDrape on the Centre Back (CB) seam. When I started the pattern development I found there was also an opportunity to work some draping magic with the waist shaping (side seam & back dart). What I came up with is a number of options for this skirt pattern development that should suit everyone's taste and style. NB These instructions use my skirt block and are for two-way stretch jersey and light weight ponti only. If you don't fancy making your own pattern, I've just added this PDF pattern to the website for the Drape Tube Skirt in Sizes 6-22.

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Pattern Puzzle - Wrap Drape Tunic

Tuesday, July 21, 2015

This weeks design follows a current trend for large cross-over tucks as seen in a couple of recent #PatternPuzzles. I know that I am really pushing the envelope with this style. To get the drape right in the front and make sure the tucks are holding everything in place will be quite a challenge. This is probably a good opportunity to remind everyone that these puzzles are ideas only, with guidelines for making the pattern. The proof is in the testing and that's a creative and technical journey from a well-fitted block through pattern making knowledge in the desire of beautiful creations. For industry product development, a dress of this complexity will take a minimum of two toiles (more likely 3-4) to get the balance right. And it's not just the cutting but the choice of fabric that is crucial. If the fit on the bust is too tight it will push the drape tucks open and be potentially ugly. If the fabric is too stiff, the front hem drape will stick out in a doll-like fashion. So take a deep breath and be prepared to make at least two toiles, to finesse this pattern, before cutting into your valuable fabric.