Friday, February 26, 2016
Did you ever think there'd be so many designs using Twist Drape? I was totally captivated with the asymmetric aspect of this design and the layering effects that can be achieved using two different fabrics and
my knit block. Like the majority of previous twists you'll definitely need a two-way stretch knit for this to work well. The elastane (Lycra/Spandex) in your knit fabric is the best tool for achieving a snug fit with this method of making twist patterns.
If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.
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Thursday, February 04, 2016
Imogeena has made a special request for grading information for the Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico. This design has turned out to be very popular as a self-draft pattern but you can understand how the simple shape may make it confusing to grade for different sizes. This post has all the grade rules and specific locations (with notes) for growing the pattern.
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Friday, January 29, 2016
For the
Garment Pleating project I've settled on the fabric choices for the three designs I'll be testing. But I'm having trouble deciding on the style of pleating to use with each individual garment. Can you help me out?
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Friday, January 22, 2016
While I wait for the local pleating house to finish their summer vacation, I'm moving onto the second phase of the Permanent Pleating Series - Garment Pleating. In this series I'll be discussing whole garment pleating as originally inspired by the work of Issey Miyake (Pleats Please).
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Tuesday, January 19, 2016
This is the third post in the Permanent Pleating series where we're looking at the pre-pleating preparation for a Sunray Circle Skirt and Mushroom Pleated rectangle. Our first post covered the introduction to the series - Prep for Permanent Pleating 101. And the second post has all the pattern making information for both skirts; Patterns for Pleating Project 101.
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Tuesday, January 12, 2016
In this post I'll cover the detail of drafting the patterns you'll need for this permanent pleating project, then follow with the essential pre-pleating preparation in the next post. Have a look at Prep for Permanent Pleating 101 if you'd like some background to this permanent pleating post series.
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Saturday, January 09, 2016
I've always had a fascination for what can be achieved with a little heat and some petro-chemical fibres. Permanent (heat-set) Pleating is the use of heat on polyester/nylon fabrics to set a pleat that will survive the rigours of wash and wear without the need of re-pressing.
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Saturday, November 28, 2015
This entire post is inspired by my fascination with circular knits. I've not had much experience with this particular cloth but have always been hooked by the possibilities. I found this piece (slight grey marl cotton) at the back of one of the local fabric shops and grabbed a couple of meters to play with. My first idea was to try the twist, especially with a fabric that's half way to dressing you without any side seams.
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Wednesday, November 18, 2015
For over 20 years I've been teaching pattern making and I swear I can teach that subject blindfolded. However recent events have me delving into an entirely new area of expertise; personal fittings. 
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Thursday, November 05, 2015
Elegant and flattering, this is an interesting cut in a knit fabric. By using
my Knit Block or your favourite tee shirt patterns, you can self-draft the front pattern piece to drape while leaving the back and sleeve patterns exactly as they are. It's a looser shape than many drape tops and is cut with a more gentle fitting rather than hugging tight to the body. That slightly looser, non-grabby tee shirt is always flattering and much easier to wear.
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