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Pattern Fundamentals - Gape Darts

Monday, November 03, 2014
Last Saturday we swapped our regular #PatternPuzzle for some #PatternFundamentals.  The focus of the conversation was GAPE DARTS and how to use them in your pattern making to get a better result in your first toile of new designs.  You may know them as contouring darts as suggested by Alexandria of In-House Patterns.Adjust patterns for sleeveless styles.

The first question for fans was do you know what a gape dart is?
And do you know when to use them?

Gape darts are most often used to tighten necklines and sleeveless armholes.  When you decide not to use the sleeve in your block or pattern, it will be the gape darting that achieves the neat fit of the armhole.  When you cut a deep or wide neckline it will be the gape darts that bring the neckline closer to the body.  Gape darts are essential for a successful sleeveless garment, wide or deep necklines, wrap styles and cut-outs.

Gape Darts are rarely mentioned in pattern making instructions.  And they will always be needed in the pattern making changes you make to your fitted block.  And until you understand gape darts they will drive you crazy.  Those gaping armholes and saggy necklines we are here to banish them.

Darts and Panels

Following are a couple of examples:
The Sleeveless V Neck & 
A Sleeveless Panel Wrap

The Sleeveless V Neck
The pattern plan below is an example of a sleeveless style with a 'V' neck.  Gape darts are needed in this style in the neckline (1cm/3/8") and the armhole (1cm/3/8") to achieve a clean, close fit.  Width reduction in the underarm (-1cm /3/8"), along the side seam will remove the extra fabric required when including a sleeve.  These three reductions in the armhole, neckline and side seam can be applied to nearly all similar styles.  The measurements suggested in this paragraph are approximate only but represent a good start in developing these style.

Dart Transfer Fitted Block

Cut through the new dart position to the bust point.  then fold closed the bust dart and both gape darts.  Add paper behind the new dart space and fold out to get the correct shape on the outside edge.  Close the gape dart on the back bodice, pivoting on the armhole edge.  Clean up the curves in the neckline and armholes before adding seam allowances.

Plan and Sewing Pattern

A Sleeveless Panel Wrap
The pattern plan below is a good example of dealing with any long diagonal line in the bodice.  In this case the asymmetric wrap in this panelled bodice has a neckline gape dart near the bust dart and further reduction of the line on the left side waist dart.  The armhole gape dart is built into the panel seam.  And the side seam at the underarm has the same treatment as above.

Princess Panels and Sleeveless

To make the pattern below transfer the bust and gape darts into the panel seam and simply close the left side waist dart as much as you can.  Longer lines tend to need twice as much gape darting as a regular neckline.

Pattern alterations princess panel seams

Let me know if you have any questions about gape darts or any other fitting issues with your toile.
Enjoy :)
Helen Joseph Armstrong

Addendum:  Fans have found a text book reference for gape darts from Helen Joseph Armstrong.  This is a great pattern making book for anyone learning to cut patterns.  Thanks to everyone for pointing the way to yet more resources for making better patterns.  
 Enjoy :)

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Comments
delores commented on 04-Mar-2015 05:29 AM
This info opens a whole new world of looking well in clothing. Thanks so o o much
Anita - studiofaro commented on 04-Mar-2015 10:31 AM
My pleasure Delores. :)
MARIELA CARPIO commented on 02-Dec-2016 01:23 AM
Explicacion fabulosa pero quiero saber como se hacen los dardos para escote profundo delantero hacia el centro de la cintura
Anita McAdam commented on 05-Dec-2016 06:35 PM
Hi Mariela, thanks for dropping by. :) For a deep neckline to the waist you use the same method with an extra gape dart closer to the waistline, pointing back to the bust point. Ket me know if you have any questions.

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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