This is the very first of our #PatternFundamentals that will occasionally interrupt the regular #PatternPuzzles. We are hoping to give you all the opportunity to prepare the necessary blocks to make better use of our Pattern Making instructions on the blog.
The following set of instructions will show you how to develop your own Stretch Skirt Block starting with your existing Basic Skirt Block for woven fabrics. If you don’t have a skirt block but do have a skirt pattern that looks anything like a Pencil Skirt, you can use the following instructions to make your Stretch Skirt Block.
- Trace around your skirt block including all darts and hip level line. ( If you are using an existing commercial pattern of a pencil skirt - trace the stitching line and eliminate all seam allowances for this exercise.)
- Mark 2.5cm (1”) inside the side seam for both front and back. This reduces your block by two sizes. Not strictly grading but ok for this exercise.
- You will end up with a negative ease amount of approx. 6cm. This is a body conscious fit and suits many fashion styles at the moment.
- If you would prefer a more relaxed fit then mark just 1.25cm inside the side seam for one size down in the skirt block. So much will depend on the fabric you are using.
- Measure your front dart and take this amount off the front side seam at the waist level.
- Draw a curve from this new fit on the waist to the hip line.
- Now reduce your back dart by the same amount and adjust back side seam as front.
- Taper your side seams at the hem by 2.5cm (1") and draw a straight line back to the hip level.
- Trace a clean copy of the new Stretch Skirt Block.
- Add your seam allowances of 7mm (¼") to side seams and waistline on your new block shape.
- Add a hem allowance of maximum 3cm (1¼") for a collarette (stretch hem) stitch hem.
- Cut a bind finish for the waist to finish 1cm (⅜") wide.
- Include some elastic in the waist bind.
- It is ok to include an invisible zip in this skirt style however in this first trial it would be interesting to test a pull-on fit if possible.