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Pattern Insights - Jersey Twist Patterns

Monday, January 05, 2015
This is the first of a new series of pattern making posts called #PatternInsights, that's me sharing the lightbulb moments of my pattern making career. Not quite as 101 as my #PatternFundamentals and no where near as complex as some of#PatternPuzzles, it's another opportunity to share. :) **I've just turned this Pattern Puzzle post into an afternoon workshop at the studio -Jersey Twist Patterns - #InAnAvo. Now available as a PDF download,detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns using My Knit Block. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.Jersey Twist Patterns

My very first encounter with #TwistDrape was when I decided to turn the more challenging and enjoyable aspects of my industry pattern making into a studio workshop.  Darts to Drape in Flat Pattern Making was the first and total descriptive name for the new workshop that was soon altered to Draped Dress Patterns. 

At the time I already had a number of interesting ideas where some strategic slash and spread technique and interesting dart manipulation produced lots of different kinds of drape.  Some using my knit block and some using our woven skirt and dress blocks.  What I would like to do here is share the very first pattern making exercise we do in our Draped Dress Patterns workshop using the Knit Block or your favourite Tee Shirt Pattern.   Please note, these particular twists only work with Two-way Stretch Jersey (i.e. has some Elastane/Spandex/Lycra content).

The Single & Double Jersey Twist Top 

A Twist 'n Seam Method using a Knit Block or tee-shirt pattern:
  1. Trace out your front, back and sleeve side by side.  Decide the location for the twist - RED CIRCLE.  And add your cutting lines to introduce extra fabric in that location.  Also add a couple of Gape Darts to the neckline to bring it close to the body.
  2. Cut and open the pattern along the cutting lines to introduce extra fabric.  Close the Gape Darts to tighten the neckline.  
      • Add per opening:-  Smaller busts - 3-4cm (1 ¼-1 ").  Larger busts - 5-6cm (2-2 ")
  3. Draw a straight line across the twist area and add minimum 1cm (⅜") to allow for the loss in front length of the top from the twist.  Curve back to neckline and centre front line.  
This is the completed pattern shape before making your final patterns.   Trace a pair of this shape and follow the instructions below for the pattern pieces.  Now is a good time to decide if you are making a Single or Double Twist Top.

Jersey Twist Patterns

For a Double Twist Jersey Top lay the pattern pieces facing each other and joined at the centre front.  You need Cut 1 Only in two-way stretch jersey for the front with the double twist.

If you would like a Single Twist Jersey Top please ensure your fabric is good both sides.  If not, you will need to self-line the front to get the right side fabric showing after the twist (i.e. Cut 1 Pair).  The pattern piece is laid out like the pictures on your playing cards, i.e. the two pattern pieces with centre front together and the body parts of the pattern facing in opposite directions.

Jersey Twist My Knit Block

I have cut and photographed a few examples in fabric that I will share later in the week.   They will show the twist  in action, the order of construction and how you sew the twist seam.  Patterns for the back and sleeve can be as your own preference.  Do let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below.

This also presents an opportunity to pull together the #PatternPuzzles that feature similar pattern making moves for own fans and watchers.  As we have moved over only a small number of our posts to this new blog, some of these links will take you back to our original blog.  Enjoy :)

So many blog posts!

Single Twist Jersey #PatternPuzzles:
7. Twist & Turnback Top - Single twist in bodice.
1. Twist or Cowl Shift - The twist shift is a single twist.

Double Twist Jersey #PatternPuzzles:

Combination Single and Double Twists:
Let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below.  Always happy to help.
Wishing you all a wonderful week.  :)

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Comments
Anonymous commented on 05-Jan-2015 08:45 PM
Thank you soooooo much I have been wanting to do this for so long . I have done some pattern making but never could work out how to do this . Your instructions are so clear . I am totally delighted 😄
Anita - studiofaro commented on 05-Jan-2015 09:49 PM
Thanks for the compliments. I would love to see your top when it is done. Let me know if you have any questions. Happy to help. :)
NatashaBi commented on 06-Jan-2015 12:26 AM
Love your blog
Lauriana commented on 06-Jan-2015 03:39 AM
Very clear!
I have made some twist designs of my own so I didn't find it difficult to recognize the pieces. However, I have always used the Pattern Magic method in which you always make intersecting pieces. That works but this is more 'back-to-basics' and will allow anyone who uses it to better understand the process (which I kind of reverse-engineered).
Karen commented on 06-Jan-2015 05:43 AM
If your fabric is not good on both sides for the single twist, you could add seam allowances to the center, after cutting down the middle, and then seam it wrong side to right side. Wouldn't that do the trick?
Anita - studiofaro commented on 06-Jan-2015 11:41 AM
Thanks for all your wonderful comments. :) This comments section is new and I don't seem to be able to answer you each, individually. I will get this fixed! So in the mean time I will put all the answers in this comment and identify who posed the question/comment. Thanks you NatashiaB for your lovely compliment. :) Thanks to Lauriana for the compliment and description of alternative twist methodologies. :) All methods are interesting and worth trying out. And yes I think when I am putting the puzzles to gather I do unpack or reverse engineer the ideas. :) Hi Karen and thanks for dropping by the blog. I think I understand your question and I think you could put a seam in the centre. However I am not sure whether the bulk of the seam in the middle of the twist may distort the garment. It is an idea worthy of testing. :)
fotomarieke commented on 08-Jan-2015 08:27 AM
you know that i am a fan of your drafts. There are so many nice ideas that I get embarrassed and want to try them all
I did try the wordverification and I hope that it can be a little bit bolder. It is so small for old eyes as is.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 08-Jan-2015 08:34 AM
Hi Fotomarieke, I agree about the word verification but there was so much spam that we had to up the anti! I am going to talk to my web person about dropping back to a more legible option. Thanks for dropping by and hope to hear from you again very soon. :)
fotomarieke commented on 11-Jan-2015 12:39 AM
I tried this new word verification in vain before.
I want to tell you that it is clear and easy to handle now.
I decided to draft the last pattern idea with the single twist .
I was so pleased that you also paid attention to big bust circumference and
decided to add also some extra width in the central front in the region of the knot. Perhaps my own concern with big bust circumference made me take that decision. Today I hope to cut and sew the (muslin of the bodice) of a garment that I hope can become a dress, but I have enough of this fabric to cut the front bodice again.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 11-Jan-2015 11:30 AM
Hi Fotomarieke. Thanks for pointing that out about the larger bust circumference. I will try to include similar notes/ideas in future blogs. And thank you for taking the time to give your feedback. Much appreciated. :)
Lacy B. commented on 06-Feb-2015 03:18 PM
Such a great tutorial that is NOT easily found anywhere else. Thank you so much! I am just wondering, how do you finish the neckline?
Anita - studiofaro commented on 07-Feb-2015 03:51 PM
Hi Lacy B. thanks for dropping by. Neckline cn be finished with a 6mm/1/4" inside binding. In the single twist if you are making the front double you can bag the necklines out. :)
Julie commented on 01-Mar-2015 03:34 PM
This is genius! I was contemplating a lovely piece of jersey this evening - if I have enough to double it a
, as the reverse is not attractive - I will have to give this a try.Like the new site and this level of design works well for my level. Thanks again!
Anita - studiofaro commented on 01-Mar-2015 03:37 PM
Hi Julie, thanks for the compliments. We would love to see how your twist top works out. :) You can email me or post it on our Facebook page.
leona commented on 21-Sep-2015 02:00 AM
Thank you!
Christine commented on 18-Oct-2015 08:48 PM
You´re genius! This is fantastic! Thank you!
Anonymous commented on 23-Oct-2015 12:41 PM
Thanks Leona and Christine. I'm flattered you like the posts. :) Are you thinking of trying this one?
Deb commented on 27-Oct-2015 07:06 AM
A mouth-watering set of learnings you're bringing to us - wonderful!

One question: my knit block has a 2 1/8" bust dart for my D cup girls -- what's the best location to transfer this for the jersey twist?
Anita commented on 28-Oct-2015 10:51 PM
Hi Deb, that is a truly wonderful question: transfer your dart into the CF area where the twist will be, then add extra fabric to make sure the twist is bold. I would love to see your sample when it is finished. :)
Anonymous commented on 25-Mar-2016 07:51 AM
thank you soo much
Anita - studiofaro commented on 25-Mar-2016 10:42 AM
My pleasure! :)
Stella commented on 16-Aug-2016 08:04 PM
Please i'ld like to know if these patterns are available for sale n how do I get them?
Anita - studiofaro commented on 19-Aug-2016 07:12 PM
Hi Stella, thanks for dropping by. I'm gradually working on patterns for the website. It's taking a while because I have to fit it in around making a living but I will get there. :) If you subscribe for the newsletter you'll be the first to hear when the patterns are ready. You can go here to subscribe: http://www.studiofaro.com/contact

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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