The idea behind this weeks #PatternPuzzle is to use a classic drape
style to show how the fitting darts in my bodice block
turn into drape
according to design. And to also have a go at making my pattern making
technique as clear as I can.
Starting with my women's fitted bodice block
(you can substitute a
fitted dress/shirt pattern), plan the position of the fitting panels and
then the drape position and direction from those panels. This style is
asymmetric so a copy of the full front is needed to make this pattern.
Note the following points:
- The tapering for hem of the dress is not marked on the side seams but marked in below the front and back waist darts.
- The shoulder line has been extended to achieve a dropped shoulder look in the dress.
- The corresponding adjustment is made to the sleeve head and underarm point.
- Both the front and back waist darts have been moved to suit the position of the panel darts in the production sketch.
- The gape dart on the back neckline will account for the back shoulder dart shaping and help control the wide neckline.
- On the front fitted block the fitting
darts, gape darts and hem tapering are coloured green to indicate what
shape will be transferred to the drape tucks in the next stage of the
- The sleeve length is set just above the elbow and a little tapered. It's becoming a bit of a favourite for me at the moment. :)
- The diagram below (on the left) is the
first stage of dart transfer that moves all darts and shaping to the
tuck positions on the front panel dart (left side). The bodice and
skirt have been separated to make this first stage possible.
- In the diagram on the right, the second
stage of development is to add extra drape to balance the three tucks
needed in this design. The pink area is the extra drape added to
complete the tucks.
- Note that the waist tuck is all additional drape (pink).
- Join the two pattern pieces at the waist,
on the right side of the pattern, and open required amount for the tuck
in the left side panel dart.
Below you will find a complete set of pattern pieces for this design.
Please note the cutting instructions (R.S.U. & W.S.U.) for the
front facing pieces. The grain on the front dress is bias to achieve
the best drape through the large tucks. The back dress may be cut on
the straight or bias grain according to the fabric you select.
I would love to hear what you all think about this classic style. Feel free to leave all comments and questions below.