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Pattern Puzzle - Cowl Back Tee

Monday, December 15, 2014

We have had a good run lately with Cowl Drape styles and this week is no exception with the Cowl Back Tee.  Last week was the Vivienne Drape Dress featuring a Cowl Drape on the neckline and in the skirt.  And Two weeks ago a reworking of The Drape Shift in a woven fabric for The Drape Shift - Woven.  You might say we are coming at the #CowlDrape thing from all directions.

Pattern making instructions.

The Cowl Back Tee is a simple but elegant take on the current fashion trend for loose, flowing shirts.  As a design feature it would work extremely well with a classic shirt, collar and cuffs.  This version of the design is set out below in a pattern plan on a dart-less, kimono block:

  1. Begin by marking in a more casual fit on the neckline.  Make sure it is big enough to get over your head.
  2. Then extend the shoulder line into a shaped, cap sleeve.
  3. Make a more generous fit for the body by adding 2.5cm (1") to the front and back side seams and dropping the underarm point 2.5cm (1").
  4. Curve in the front and back armholes.
  5. The front length is approximately 6-7cm (2 ⅜-2 ¾") below the hip line with side seam splits from the hem to the hip level.
  6. The back length curves from the split notch, to a length 20cm (8") below the hip line.  
  7. Mark in the back yoke curve from the centre back to the armhole.
  8. Finally mark the drape lines in the back pattern , int he locations you would like the cowl to fall.
Cowl Back Pattern Plan

  1. The front and yoke patterns are fairly straight forward to lift from the pattern plan.  cut both pattern out as full patterns, adding seam & hem allowances.
  2. For the back pattern, cut along the drape lines from the centre back to the yoke line and side seam.
  3. Keeping the yoke line and side seams together, open up the space between the drape lines to add extra fabric for the cowl.
  4. Draw in a clean curve from the centre back under the yoke, through to the hemline.  It is this shape we use to make the final pattern for both back views in this #PatternPuzzle.
Pattern Making Development

In the diagram below you can see how the one pattern development is used to make the patten pieces for both back views.  More than anything this post is an exercise in understanding the making of #CowlDrape.  For better fabric usage you might consider a full back seam from below the yoke line.  Cutting these back pieces on the straight grain will locate the bias fabric very much where the cowl falls.
Final Sewing Patterns

Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions about this post.  Always happy to help.
Enjoy :)

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Comments
velosewer commented on 16-Mar-2015 01:02 PM
This would make a great activewear top!
Anonymous commented on 16-Mar-2015 02:41 PM
That sounds like a great idea. The back would certainly be long enough for cycling. :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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