Pattern Puzzle - Cowl Tee

Monday, April 06, 2015

It never ceases to amaze me how often I am drawn to this particular style of cowl drape. You will find many examples in the #PatternPuzzles that have been presented here over the past few years. This puzzle starts with the simplest of shapes and becomes an elegant tunic top.

From the diagram below you can see that the shape we start with is a loose-fit tunic pattern. You can easily substitute something similar from your pattern stash or checkout my garment blocks. Mark in the cut lines on the pattern for the front and back. Note the cut lines head from the left shoulder toward the right side seam on both front and back patterns.

Cut your pattern open and decide how much extra fabric you want in your drape. In this example I have opened up my pattern to eliminate the right side seam, add extra length to the right side and keep the hemline along a straight edge (the selvedge) while extending the left side drape. All very experimental in it's own way, so it will be important to consider the fabric you have and judge the extra fabric required in each case.

Let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below. I am always happy to help. Enjoy :)

Comments

Mathilde Loschky commented on 06-Apr-2015 03:21 PM

hallo ich komme aus deutschland und verfolge immer sehr gespannt ihr veröffentlichungen.
ich würde mir dieses kleid gerne für die hochzeit unseres sohnes nähen.
ich verstehe nur nicht ganz die masse dieses schnittes . wie gross sind die musterkästchen.
jetzt schonmal vielen Dank
mathilde

Anonymous commented on 06-Apr-2015 04:49 PM

Hi Mathilde, thank you for visiting the blog. I have translated your question but do not understand. To begin you need to have a simple tunic top pattern. Do you have this for yourself?

Hallo Mathilde, ich danke Ihnen für den Besuch der Blog. Ich habe Ihre Frage übersetzt aber nicht verstehen. Um zu beginnen, müssen Sie eine einfache Tunika Muster haben. Haben Sie diese für sich selbst?

Mia Marquard commented on 06-Apr-2015 07:17 PM

I think I understand Matildes question: she wanted to know the size of the small squares in the background in order to draw the pattern with the help of a similar squared paper. It is a common way to exchange and draw a pattern in Gemany (and Denmark too, where I live)

Anonymous commented on 06-Apr-2015 09:53 PM

Thanks Mia, that is so helpful. For Mathilde the small squares are for graphic only, not for measuring or drafting. :)

Dank Mia, das ist so hilfsbereit. Für Mathilde die kleinen Quadrate sind für Grafik, nicht für Messen oder Zeichnen. :)

Hélène commented on 06-Apr-2015 10:15 PM

Many thanks, Anita! This one seems easy enough for me (some of your designs are far beyond my skills) and this is just the kind of drapé that I was looking for. Your blog is great!

Mathilde Loschky commented on 06-Apr-2015 11:29 PM

ach vielen vielen dank ihr lieben
jetzt habe ich es ach verstanden danke

Anonymous commented on 07-Apr-2015 11:05 AM

Thanks Helene, I appreciate to hear that. :)

Anonymous commented on 07-Apr-2015 11:07 AM

My pleasure Mathilde. It is very special that we have our own personal interpreter (Mia :) Huge thx. Meine Freude Mathilde. Es ist etwas ganz Besonderes, dass wir unsere eigenen persönlichen Dolmetscher (Mia :) Riesige thx.

Roberta commented on 03-Jun-2015 10:04 PM

Come faccio ad aggiungere la manica alla mia base? Costruisco la base della tunica con le mie misure davanti e dietro. Faccio lo sviluppo del figurino chiudendo la pinces di spalla e formando i tagli e fino qui è tutto chiaro ma non riesco a capire la manica come aggiunaggiungerla.Grazie

Anonymous commented on 06-Jun-2015 10:01 AM

Hi Roberta thanks for your question. In this design we use the kimono bock where the sleeve is attached to the block and a gusset is needed for using the sleeve area for good movement. If you have a look at the pattern plan you will see the outline of the original sleeve and bodice joined together.
I will be offering a tutorial for making a kimono block on the blog very soon. :)

Ciao Roberta grazie per la tua domanda. In questo disegno si usa il bock kimono in cui il manicotto è fissato al blocco e un tassello è necessario per utilizzare l'area manica per buon movimento. Se si dispone di uno sguardo al piano di modello si vedrà la sagoma del manicotto originale e corpetto uniti.
Sarò offrendo un tutorial per fare un blocco kimono sul blog molto presto. :)

sharifa commented on 16-Jun-2015 03:31 AM

Hi i really appreciate what you share with us im beginner requesting to give us the final drape of this cowl tee i look very confused thanks in advance

Anonymous commented on 02-Jul-2015 01:15 PM

Hi Sharifa, thanks for dropping by. Please explain what you mean by 'final drape". Do you mean the garment?

Liat commented on 03-Mar-2016 05:46 AM

I am an avid follower, and now I'm really itching to make this dress.
I noticed the similarity between this pattern and Rick Owens' Lilies dress (https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/1b/48/d9/1b48d9c44008358e852fdedd518be4f6.jpg), only in Owens' dress the fabric is tilted even more - look at the fine lines in the fabric how they bend?
If I spread your pattern even more, to the point where the shoulders line becomes parallel to the side seam, do you think it will get me closer to Owens' dress?

Anita commented on 04-Mar-2016 09:00 AM

HI Liat, thanks for dropping by and delightful compliments. Yes I think you could push this pattern idea as you say - 'where the shoulder line becomes parallel to the side seam. Be aware that this design has a loot of fullness added to the hem. Your photo shows no such excess. So be sure to keep the hemline together (no added fullness) to get closer to the pattern you are after. I'd love to see you samples as you work this idea out. Happy to help at any time. :)

Diana commented on 17-Mar-2016 02:07 PM

Hi there. From the first time I saw this dress, I told myself that I'm making it. It's fascinating just looking at the way it drapes. Haven't gotten around to doing it as yet but I'm definitely going to. Thanks for your detailed description. Very beautiful. Would you think it would look Good in a silk material? Blessings to you. As soon as I make it, I try & send you a picture.

Anita - studiofaro commented on 18-Mar-2016 12:37 PM

Hi Diana, thanks for dropping by. I think this style would be best in a knit/jersey. It really needs to drape softly and silk woven fabric doesn't always do that.

I'd love to see any photos you have of your makes. :) You can email them to me or post on my Facebook page. Or tag me in your own posts. Let me know if you have any questions as you work through the pattern. I'm always happy to help. :)

Maha Zappa commented on 28-Oct-2016 12:15 AM

good day,
thank you for these lovely designs and patterns. I have a question, I ma confused about one matter, in Cowl Tee we used the cut and splash method to do drapes and in other models we connect front and back by adding piece of fabric, what is the difference please? another question: for draping dress sometimes you start lines from shoulder line and sometimes from the lowest point from armhole, why? I thank you so much in advance for writing me back and maybe my questions sounds stupid but still I love your web and I am new in sewing more or less. I wish you all best and success in your web.
friendly yours
maha

Anita - studiofaro commented on 28-Oct-2016 01:35 PM

HI Maha thanks for dropping by. :) Without direct post examples it's impossible to answer your question; except to say there is always a couple of different methods to achieve any pattern. Each pattern maker has her own method and style. Please use post examples so I can answer your question and make sense. :)