For this week's #PatternPuzzle, my initial idea was to make a slim jersey skirt with a #CowlDrape on the Centre Back (CB) seam. When I started the pattern development I found there was also an opportunity to work some draping magic with the waist shaping (side seam & back dart). What I came up with is a number of options for this skirt pattern development that should suit everyone's taste and style.
NB These instructions use my skirt block
and are for two-way stretch jersey and light weight ponti only
For the Pattern Plan, begin with a Stretch Skirt Block or select a size smaller in a woven skirt block:
- In this example I have reduced my woven skirt block by 1½ sizes, ignored the front waist dart and slightly reduced the back waist dart.
- Lengthen the skirt to suit your own style and height. I have added 10cm in length, past my knee level, in this example.
- Taper the side seams of the skirt by 3cm at the hem, back to 0cm at the hipline on the front and back skirt.
- The Cowl Drape is located above the hemline on the centre back line of the skirt.
- To create the drape, mark in four cut lines from the CB through to the CF (centre front) of the skirt.
The first stage in the pattern development is to:
- Bring the side seams of the skirt block together and cut through the drape lines where you will introduce the extra fabric.
- Open up along the CB line for the Cowl Drape, adding approx. 5-6cm between each section.
- At this stage you have a tube skirt with cowl drape, low on the CB line, with two large darts for the waist, one from the back skirt and one for the side seam shape. If this feels a little clunky or unresolved, there are two options to translate these darts into drape around the waist and high hip area.
- The first option (featured in the centre) is to push the waist shaping through to the CF seam. This creates gentle drape around front waistline and high hip. I have used this move in a woven draped skirt and found it to be flattering and comfortable.
- The second option is to send the waist shaping through to the CB seam. For this location, it's probably best to turn this extra fabric into three, sewn-down tucks. This was initially my favourite of the options until I developed the third and final option.
If you take one pattern from each of the options above (pictured below in colour), you can direct the waist drape to both the front and back seams on alternate sides of the garment. It creates an interesting design with asymmetric drape, front and back, By far my favourite option because the drape at the waist is held nicely in the seam. :)
To finish the skirt waist, add a narrow bind in self fabric with elastic included to support and strengthen the recovery in the waist. Provided you have used two-way stretch jersey you should be able to pull this skirt on over your hips. If you give these instructions a go, please let me know because I would love to share your work. :)