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Pattern Puzzle - Erte Inspired Design

Monday, December 22, 2014

This weeks #PatternPuzzle was about targeting another of my favourite Erte designs and bringing this inspiration up-to-date.  As it turns out this is a truly challenging style.  I know I made at least two mistakes in putting these pattern making instructions together.  So please forgive any other errors you may find.  And because of it's complexity, I imagine I would have to produce at least 2-3 toiles/muslins to really get the design and fit to work well before attempting in final cloth.
Erte Design Development

The Design Development below offers some length and fit options for the new design.  The style selected for development (top right corner) has a funnel neck developed into a cowl, a peg-top style skirt and banded panel feature all built on a semi-fitted kimono block.  My original intention is to make this dress in a soft drapey woven fabric.  However I think the instructions would also work on a jersey kimono block using one-way stretch fabric.

Fashion Design Portfolio

The pattern plan below is set out on a knit kimono block.  It's your choice whether to use a knit or woven kimono block.  Waist darts are added to the front and back blocks to achieve a waist fit that equals your waist measurement plus 4cm garment ease.

  1. Relax the neckline fit and add the built-up rectangles to the neckline shape to make the funnel neck collar.
  2. Taper the skirt of the dress from the hip line to the hemline (approx. 3cm/1 1/4").
  3. Mark in the banded panels as a figure eight around the right front and back shoulder and the waist (approx. 6cm/2 3/8" wide).
  4. Now mark in the dashed lines for the placement of the drape in the skirt and the front waist.
  5. Shape the centre back seam and include an invisible zip and walking split/vent.
  6. Add the pocket detail by extending the left side seam on the front and back to sit away from the dress.
Erte Design Pattern Plan

In the pattern development for the front dress:

  1. Transfer the bodice darts into the cowl drape in the funnel neck collar.  Add extra fabric to maintain the balance in the cowl if required.
  2. Add a gusset allowance to both front sleeves of approx. 2-2.5cm (3/4-1").
  3. Trace the banded panels, eliminating the darts and side seam shaping to form two simple pattern pieces.  They will reach from the front around to the centre back seam (shaded areas).
  4. Open the skirt along the drape lines and add fabric for the gathered drape.
  5. Lift the two pocket patterns.  the piece closest to the body is the smaller piece.  The outside edge seam of the two pocket bag pieces do need to be the same length to form the pocket.
Pattern Development Erte
In the pattern development for the back dress:
  1. Add a gusset allowance to both back sleeves of approximately 2-2.5cm (3/4-1").
  2. Trace the banded panels for the back waist and join to the front panels with the exception of the back right shoulder panel.
  3. Open the skirt along the drape lines and add fabric for the gathered drape.
  4. Adjust the back right panel by shifting the dart shaping to the seam that joins the banded panel.
  5. You may be able to eliminate the dart in the back left panel by removing equal amounts off either side of the pattern piece.  However it may be more accurate to try this alteration in the first fitting.
Pattern Development
Now to the error in Saturdays post.  :/  I did forget to include the draping in the front bodice pattern so I have outlined below the two options you have available, i.e. with or without the gathered drape at the waist.
Design Options for your Erte sewing pattern.
Here's hoping you all enjoyed the #PatternPuzzle last Saturday and I look forward to seeing you on Facebook next Saturday.  Please ask any pattern making questions you have in the comment section below.  Always happy to help.
Enjoy :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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