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Pattern Puzzle - Flare & Gather Dress

Monday, June 23, 2014
A very clever bunch of #PatternPuzzlers were able to nail all the detail in this complex design on Saturday.  The most baffling part of the pattern shape were the very deep tucks in the left shoulder.  This draped style mixes straight and bias grains with tucks and gathering and an invisible zip in the left side seam.Flare and Gather Sewing Pattern

Staring with my fitted dress block for woven fabrics, trace full front and back drafts to plan this asymmetric style.  

  1. To begin, decide the various lengths of the dress by starting with the lowest and highest points on the left side of the dress then plotting the other in-between length for the right side seam. 
  2. Connect the lower left side point to the front left side dart. 
  3. Then position the seam for the left side gathered panel, connecting front left dress to the CB seam.  Break this panel into regular sections for later development.
  4. Draw up the under pleat section of the front left where the gathered panel connects to the lower left point. 
  5. Extend the shoulder into a cap sleeve and draw in the boat neckline, front and back. 
  6. Mark in your placement lines for the CB elastic casing.
  7. Near the right front side seam mark in a slim panel from the underarm, slanted toward the hipline then extended for extra flare. 
  8. Mark in the the dashed lines across the front dress locating the gathering on the right side and the large tucks in the front left shoulder.

Flare Gather Dress Pattern plan

There are three main pattern pieces in this dress with the front being the most complex.  Cut along all dashed lines to add fullness to gathers and large tucks to the left shoulder.  Regulate the amount of extra fabric for drape according to the weight of the fabric you are using.

First pattern making moves.

In the final patterns the back is on the straight grain and the front is cut on the bias.  The large shoulder tucks are folded up toward the neckline.  Select a grain line that places the majority of the drape on the bias grain in the shoulder and right side gathers.  All patterns are cut Right Side Up (R.S.U.) to maintain the detail in this asymmetric style.

Flare and Gather final patterns.

Let us know if you have any questions about this style.  Let a comment or email us direct.  
Enjoy :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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