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Pattern Puzzle - Folk to Fashion

Monday, January 13, 2014

Last weekend's #PatternPuzzle was a little different from our usual pattern shapes.  From the conversation you can see that some pattern pieces are obvious and some not so much.  The self-drafted image below is one of the most effective examples I have come across of zero-waste pattern making, typical of a lot of folk costume construction.Zero-waste folk costume inspired.

First glance at the pattern diagram is a little confusing until you see the garment sketch set out below.  What's clever in this pattern plan is how the one simple shape is used for the sleeve, yoke and neckline.    The proportions in this sketch suggest the garment is most likely full length.

Folk to Fashion

What did fascinate me about the original pattern plan is how all the shapes fit so neatly inside the rectangle, using 100% of the fabric and yet they fit together to make a wearable garment.  My challenge was to find out if the idea could be used to produce a garment that we would wear today.  How can this clever piece of zero-waste design be used in current fashion?

The loose tent like shape is not that different from many of the fashion shapes we are seeing on the catwalk at the moment.  So I decided to see if I could alter the plan to make a tunic length top, with a three-quarter sleeve that you might wear over skinny jeans.

Planning your pattern making.

The measurements I used to draft up the diagram were:

    1. Full length of the top *(84 + 2 + 4 = 90cm).
    2. Front length from yoke seam to hem (65 + 1 + 4 = 70cm)
    3. And the length of the sleeve pattern measuring from the CB line, across the back and down the sleeve length *(59 + 2 + 4 = 65cm).
    4. Sleeve opening (28 + 2 = 30cm)
    5. And the width of the fabric (150cm).
    *When making these calculations it is important to include all turnings (1cm seam and 4cm hem allowances).

Self-draft pattern.

I plotted the pattern up on 1cm graph paper and discovered that the inversion on the pattern pieces works to match the side seam godet into the body panels no matter what length you want your tunic or your sleeve length.  Use your own measurements or follow the diagram above.

Folk Fashion Options

As soon as I'd worked out the measurements on paper I tore off a 135cm piece of cotton voile to make my first toile.  Join me later in the week if you would like to see the results.

Layup and cut out

Enjoy! :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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About Studio Faro

The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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