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Pattern Puzzle - Gil Brandao, Conjunto Pratico

Monday, February 16, 2015
Gil Brandao's patterns have a seductive quality in their simplicity and clarity.  Often with pattern making instructions, simplicity is no more than an absence of information that can be finally very frustrating.  Not so for Gil.  His diagrams have all the required information.  So much so that my inability to read Portuguese does not present a problem.Gil Brandao Vintage Patterns

No matter how much confidence I have in Gil's work I still need to verify his ideas by producing the pattern and a toile/muslin.  The draft below begins with a 27 cm square:
  1. Then extend the right side of the square to a total length of 54 cm.
  2. Connect the lower left corner of the square to the end of the 54 cm line. This is your Centre Back line that will be placed on the fold in the fabric.
  3. Extend the top of the square to the right for a total of 85 cm.
  4. Then connect the end of the 54 cm line to the end of the 85 cm line.
  5. Finally draw in the cut line for the armhole 32 cm long, at a 45 degree angle from the top right corner of the square.

Vintage Pattern Drafting

The diagram below has all the parts of the pattern labeled to give everyone a better understanding of how this bodice sits on the body.  Please note this pattern has a Cut 1 to Fold instruction for the Centre Back line.

Self-draft pattern making instructions.

The full pattern piece is laid along the lengthwise grain of your fabric.  Add a small seam allowance to finish this bodice and cut two to fully line this piece.  This draft makes up to the relatively small size of an Australian Size 8 (bust 88cm, waist 65 cm).  To grade into larger sizes add ½" per size between CB and armhole and add another 1 ½" between the armhole and tie end (per size).  Add ¼' to the height of the pattern, through the armhole area for each size.

Vintage pattern making.

Ultimately a bodice of this design, fitted only to the waist, has limited use in current fashion trends.  The addition of a gathered or pleated skirt to this wrap top would make a very interesting dress.  If you would like to grade this design to your own personal size I've posted the details here: Grade Rules - Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico
Let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below.  Always happy to help.  Enjoy  :)

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Comments
Alecia commented on 17-Feb-2015 04:52 PM
Thank you for expanding on this pattern and giving further instructions! I've been wanting to make this for a long time but I haven't had the guts to play around with it and work it all out.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 17-Feb-2015 05:23 PM
My pleasure Alecia. We would love to see you final garment if you are ok to share. :) Let me know if you have any questions along the way.
Imogheena commented on 25-Mar-2015 11:48 PM
I've been considering try this out from the original diagram... One day! Now you've got me curious to actually, like, DO it! It could work well over a full skirt. However I agree about it being an interesting experiment to add a skirt to it, too!

It would help to understand more clearly what part of the pattern pertains to which part of body for grading up, especially as 'sizes' are so varied. I usually just measure a flat pattern and adjust to fit.
Would you be able to confirm my interpretation of how the pattern works?
The bust-line is horizontal and few cm below the bottom of the armhole line? I'd need to have the distance from CB to the armhole cut the same as from my own cb to the back of my armscye, plus ease?

For the front I'd also need the distance from the armhole cut to the edge of the wrap at bustline to equal mine, plus enough to wrap properly, plus ease?
The length of the waist part is twice the waist, plus extra to tie?
The length of the armhole cut is the armscye plus extra to tie? (Though this could easily be adjusted to fit quite easily if I start small and cut further as needed.)

A question about the grainline, in the original diagram it looks like the armhole cut is on the bias, which could help with the comfort of the top. Yours makes it on the straight grain. Any reason why apart from that it would fit on the fabric more economically?
I've got mostly quilting-weight cottons in my stash. Is a voile more likely to work? Any ideas?

I just need to work out what one of my luscious delicious fabrics to make this up in if the muslin works out.
Anonymous commented on 26-Mar-2015 02:00 PM
Hi Imogheena. Thanks you so much for such a detailed comment. I am sure I can build a grading plan for this style to help you alter the fit. I should get a chance to do this over the weekend. I will let you know as soon as I have something concrete. Have you ever graded a pattern to a different size before?
lola commented on 14-Oct-2015 01:28 AM
Please i would like you to do pattern drafting on
1. ladies pants.
2. long trumpet skirts
3. Corsets
4. Bust
Anita commented on 16-Oct-2015 10:19 AM
Hi Lola, thanks for dropping by. You can learn some pattern making by trying some of our blog posts. If possible to get a good pattern making book. Do you have access to these books? :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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