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Pattern Puzzle - Gil Brandao Wrap Blouse

Monday, January 12, 2015
I finally had a chance to use some of the wonderful work in the Gil Brandao book.  In particular this pattern hooked me from the beginning as it doesn't seem to make any sense.  To start with the thing  that looks like a dart is really an armhole?  And that thing that looks like a sleeve is in fact a waist tie. As you can imagine I was looking forward to an interesting fitting.Gil Brandao Vintage Patterns

I decided to draft out a quarter scale model and was able to get enough information from the diagram and some numbers in the text (all in portuguese).  If you go to the link above and download the book you will find this little beauty on page 16 & 17.
The numbers I have used below would suit a Australian Size 12.  The measurements you need to make sense of this draft are your back length, measured nape to waist, you waist to hip level and across back.  You can use these measurements to adjust and confirm the blouse will fit you.  I extended the length of the armhole to be a bit more realistic (was 19cm and I made it 23cm).  And added quite a lot to the back length to make it 42cm (16 1/2")

Gil Brandao Vintage Pattern Making Intructions 

In the fitting, the only issue that required any attention was the gaping the the front armhole (see photos above).  This is quite easily turned into a dart.  When you are fitting the toile, pin in the darting required for your fit and transfer that information back to the pattern.

Vintage Sewing Patterns

If you are keen to get out a pencil and a large piece of paper the image above is to scale and the grid is 5cm/2".  Let me know if you have any questions.  Always happy to help.
Enjoy  :)

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Comments
Sue Murphy commented on 12-Jan-2015 04:54 PM
I love this top! I am so pleased you made it up in a size 12. I love the draping and also that it has tails at the back.
its very cute. I will have to add it to my list of things to make over the next few weeks. Thanks for sharing! Sue
Lauriana commented on 12-Jan-2015 05:27 PM
It's a very interesting design. I liked the book too, so 1960's! I also had a look at the dresses one but unfortunately, the designs in that one are all fairly conventional.

There's one thing which always puzzles me about designs like this though, especially if they are several decades old so we can assume they were made for seamstresses who didn't have such machinery as sergers: Designers and pattern brands tend to promote these as easy because there are fewer seams to sew as in a regular top. However, there are many more edges which need finishing at awkward angles and in tricky corners. This top would either have to be made from a material which doesn't fray at all or it should be made double/fully lined or you could spend quite some time narrowly hemming that long curved edge and you would have to make a facing for the armhole. Or just use binding everywhere.
None of which is impossible of course, but it rather spoils the 'care-fee, easy-to-do' effect the original designer usually gave these things.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 13-Jan-2015 07:31 AM
Thanks Sue Murphy for your lovely comments. It certainly surprised me how good it was after only the first draft. Would love to see you top when it makes it to the top of the to-do list. :)

Lauriana you are so right about the manufacturing issues. A very quirky and interesting pattern but not at all suitable for manufacture. I think my preference is to make full lining and then I would have a reversible top. But mostly it's more like a fascinating pattern making project, more personal than practical. Also a lot like our #PatternPuzzles. Interesting and challenging but impractical with fabric wastage. Thanks for dropping by. :)
Jane commented on 14-Jan-2015 06:06 PM
lovely top but confusing pattern! Not sure I can even work out how it is sewn together/ worn.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 15-Jan-2015 08:00 AM
Hi Jane thanks for dropping by. The only sewing is the shoulder point and corner near the red arrow in the last diagram. The outside edges also need to be hemmed, bound or the top entirely lined out. The pattern is cut on the fold and once you have sewn the shoulder corner seams the slits are the armholes and you wrap it around the body. It surprised me in how effective it was in the first sample. You will probably have to make a dart in the front armhole to stop t gapping. Hope this helps. :0 Let me know if you have any questions.

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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