well-suited

Pattern Puzzle | Cut The Trends | Pattern Fundamentals | Pattern Insights | Pattern Fix | First Sample | Design & Illustration | Vintage Patterns | well-suited archive

Pattern Puzzle - Green Velvet Drape

Monday, December 01, 2014

Green Velvet Drape - A homage to Ceil Chapman 1950 

Over a year ago I found the image of this amazing vintage dress on Pinterest, compliments of Mill Street Vintage.  Unfortunately (for us) it has been sold and is no longer in their shop.  So I made up the back view to hopefully balance with the wonderful design detail on the front.Vintage Drape Sewing Pattern
One thing I am very certain of is that the internal structure of this dress will be extensive (1950'scouture style!).  My interpretation will not be able to include such amazing detail.  However if you were to add fusible interlining to the lining fabric and nylon boning to the darts and seams on the bodice lining you will get a very similar effect.
The Pattern Plan below is set out on my women's fitted dress block.  
  1. You will need to trace the front out as a full dress to deal with the asymmetric drape detail.  
  2. The half back block is sufficient for the symmetrical design detail of the back dress.  
  3. There is a two layer effect in the skirts with a panel of velvet attached to the dress lining.
  4. Sketch in the squared necklines for the front and back bodice including gape darting for both necklines.
  5. Working off the front left bodice waist dart mark in the number and direction of all tucks for the drape.
  6. The drape in this dress is a combination of dart transfer and the addition of extra fabric to even up the effect of the tucked drape.
  7. Add some extra width into the side seams of the over-skirt to visually define the layers in the skirt.
  8. Add shaping to the Centre Back seam at the waist and shift the waist dart to the centre of the back waist.
  9. Connect this dart through to the shoulder strap of the squared neckline.
  10. Mark in the line for the separation of the lining and the underskirt velvet panel.
Pattern Plan Green Velvet Drape

For the Pattern Development:

  1. Start by cutting along the left waist seam into the left side waist dart to the bust point.
  2. Close the bodice bust darts, including the gape darting in the neckline.
  3. Cut through bodice drape lines and fold out remainder of bodice darting.
  4. Open each section of the bodice to achieve similar amounts of fabric in each tuck for the drape.
  5. Moving to the skirt, cut along the drape lines and fold out the skirt waist darts.
  6. Open the sections in the skirt to achieve a similar amount of drape in the tucks as in the bodice.
  7. Separate the side back bodice panel from the remainder of the back pattern. 
Sewing Pattern Development
  1. Copy off a simple front and back lining with all darting (bust and gape darts) transferred to the waist dart.
  2. Separate the lower skirt to be cut in the main fabric (velvet) from the upper skirt that will be cut in lining.
Final Sewing Pattern
The final patterns below have the grain lines marked and the fold direction of each of the tucks  in the front drape.  If cut in velvet the front should be cut on the straight grain to maintain consistent colour in the dress.  
Final Patterns Vintage Green Velvet
Let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below.  Very happy to help.
Enjoy  :)

Addendum 01.12.14 :  A fabulous has found the link to comprehensive views of the original Ceil Chapman Dress.  Huge thanks for all the wonderful research that has completed this post.  :)

Share this blog post:





Comments
Ludisousa commented on 07-Nov-2016 11:30 AM
Estou maravilhada amei os detalhes e mais na pesquisa que fiz pode observar muitos vestidos plus saizes
Anita - studiofaro commented on 07-Nov-2016 12:46 PM
Hi Ludisousa, thanks for dropping by and your lovely compliments. :)

Post a Comment




Captcha Image

Trackback Link
http://www.studiofaro.com/BlogRetrieve.aspx?BlogID=8267&PostID=521822&A=Trackback
Trackbacks
Post has no trackbacks.


RSS

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

Recent Posts



ALL MY GARMENT BLOCKS

All my garment blocks.

If you can't find what you're looking for on this blog;  try our blog archive!



About Studio Faro

The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


Back to Top