Green Velvet Drape - A homage to Ceil Chapman 1950
- You will need to trace the front out as a full dress to deal with the asymmetric drape detail.
- The half back block is sufficient for the symmetrical design detail of the back dress.
- There is a two layer effect in the skirts with a panel of velvet attached to the dress lining.
- Sketch in the squared necklines for the front and back bodice including gape darting for both necklines.
- Working off the front left bodice waist dart mark in the number and direction of all tucks for the drape.
- The drape in this dress is a combination of dart transfer and the addition of extra fabric to even up the effect of the tucked drape.
- Add some extra width into the side seams of the over-skirt to visually define the layers in the skirt.
- Add shaping to the Centre Back seam at the waist and shift the waist dart to the centre of the back waist.
- Connect this dart through to the shoulder strap of the squared neckline.
- Mark in the line for the separation of the lining and the underskirt velvet panel.
For the Pattern Development:
- Start by cutting along the left waist seam into the left side waist dart to the bust point.
- Close the bodice bust darts, including the gape darting in the neckline.
- Cut through bodice drape lines and fold out remainder of bodice darting.
- Open each section of the bodice to achieve similar amounts of fabric in each tuck for the drape.
- Moving to the skirt, cut along the drape lines and fold out the skirt waist darts.
- Open the sections in the skirt to achieve a similar amount of drape in the tucks as in the bodice.
- Separate the side back bodice panel from the remainder of the back pattern.
- Copy off a simple front and back lining with all darting (bust and gape darts) transferred to the waist dart.
- Separate the lower skirt to be cut in the main fabric (velvet) from the upper skirt that will be cut in lining.
Addendum 01.12.14 : A fabulous has found the link to comprehensive views of the original Ceil Chapman Dress. Huge thanks for all the wonderful research that has completed this post. :)