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Pattern Puzzle- Hi-Lo Drape Shift

Tuesday, May 12, 2015
The post is a little late this week as I am totally distracted by work that is going on in the backend of the website, setting up a members area.  We have been working out the best content to make it both attractive and useful to fans and hope to open that members area very soon.  Now back to the #PatternPuzzle that was such fun on Saturday with fans working getting to the answers super-fast.  Then overnight, while I was asleep so  many added sketches and photos and in one case an amazing mini-toile.Hi Lo Drape
I will get to the patten making instructions in a moment... But firstly there is a much more important story to tell...  About possibilities, imagination and flexibility in pattern making.  It was Jeannette's mini toile that sparked this idea with her imaginative use of the pattern pieces.  And although her solution was not the same as the #PatternPuzzle, it was both interesting and possible.  Here Jeannette has used the pattern as a single piece and placed the drape on the front side seam only.  It is remarkably similar to the Waterfall Drape Skirt in that all the darting is sent to one side seam, producing a large amount of drape.  And similar to The Apron Dress where all the darting is sent to the side seam for the front and back patterns.  However Jeannette's Dress is far more demanding but nonetheless possible.  Don't be surprised if you see something similar turn up in a future pattern puzzle. ;)

Pattern Puzzles on facebook.
Starting with my fitted dress block. trace out half front and back with the side seams together:
  1. Mark in your neckline and sleeveless armhole with the usual gape darts.
  2. Mark in the slightly shaped low empire seam, from the front through to the back.
  3. Double the darts on the empire line to make sure the garment profile is sharp.
  4. Mark in the princess panel lines on the front and back bodices.
  5. This dress has  Hi-Lo hemline.  Using your tape measure, stand in front of the mirror and decide your best lengths for you for the front and back hemline.  I approximate the hems in this pattern plan are most likely front 107cm (from HNP) and back 120cm (from nape).
  6. Mark in the curved Hi-Lo hemline, making sure the line starts with a right angle on the CF and ends in a right angle on the CB.
  7. In the area under the empire line, between CF and the waist dart, mark in a number of vertical lines.  These will be used to introduce Gathered Drape to the front skirt.
  8. From the empire line, at the front dart position, mark in the curved lines that will introduce Cowl Drape in the back skirt.
Pattern plan fitted dress block.
The major pattern development in this puzzle is adding the extra fabric to the skirt to achieve both Gathered and Cowl Drape in this design.
Starting with a good straight line for the CF mark in each section of the front pattern, adding extra fabric between each section for the Gathered Drape.  When you get to the Cowl Drape through the back skirt, close all the darts, join the side seams together and open up to add the extra fabric.  There are no rules as to how much you add.  It will depend a lot on the fabric you are using for this design. 
Pattern Making Notes
The final pattern pieces below are the four bodice patterns and the one large (front & Back) skirt pattern.  I fancy the bodice would benefit from a full lining as long as you stabilise the neckline and armholes.  As for the skirt area, lining is possible but please remember that you will see the back lining because of the Hi-Lo hemline.  That means the colour match of fabric to lining needs to be good and not too distracting.
Using my fitted dress block.
Let me know if you have any questions about this design and these pattern making instructions.  Always happy to help. :)

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Comments
Hélène commented on 12-May-2015 09:59 PM
I love the shape. This kind of drape was a mystery to me, but now, with this clear visual of pattern developtment, I feel like a fully understand. Brilliant work!
fotomarieke commented on 13-May-2015 03:29 AM
This seems to me a fabulous dress.
I keep it in mind for a try. You are making me too busy, Thank you for having something to muse about
Anonymous commented on 13-May-2015 04:56 PM
Hi Helene, I am so pleased to hear the post has helped. :)
Anonymous commented on 13-May-2015 05:33 PM
Thanks Fotomarieke, I too have the problem of the very long list of patterns to cut. :)
Laura V commented on 29-May-2015 05:51 PM
Hi Anita and Studio Faro! You are doing a fantastic work! This pattern looks so beautiful! I think I will try it some day. :) Thank you so muck for your detailed explanations!
Anonymous commented on 31-May-2015 08:26 PM
Hi Laura V, thanks for your comment and your lovely email. :) Hope everything went well with the wedding outfit. Look forward to hearing from you soon with your own creations. ;)
Laura V commented on 01-Jun-2015 09:33 PM
Hi Anita, thank you for your replay. My friend, meanwhile, found a dress, but talking to her, a had the great opportunity to discover your absolutely gorgeous blog. :) I have also a blog with my creations I executed myself, in my free time, or made with a tailor, but they have simple and classical patterns, with lines and angles (except of course the classical umbrella skirt :) ). Now I'm working to a new dress and I will try to understand, from your awesome patterns, how to add a little drape on one hip. It's a dress from 3 different fabrics and I'm not sure it's the best idea, but if I'll succeed, I'll let you know from which pattern I learned. :) Thank you very much again!
Anonymous commented on 22-Jun-2015 04:50 PM
I can't believe i missed your comment. Thx so much for your lovely compliments. Please let me know where your blog is I would like to follow, etc. :)
Anonymous commented on 13-Aug-2015 06:01 PM
je vais essayer de faire cette robe pour ma fille.trop belle.merci
Anonymous commented on 14-Aug-2015 09:45 AM
I would love to see the dress you make for your daughter. :) If you are happy to share please send some photos.
Je serais ravi de voir la robe que vous faites pour votre fille. :) Si vous êtes heureux de partager s'il vous plaît envoyer des photos.
Louise Sparrow commented on 07-Nov-2015 11:52 AM
I've just made this dress - love it!! Thank you so much for another great design. Going out for dinner tonight, wearing my new dress.
Louise Sparrow commented on 07-Nov-2015 11:52 AM
I've just made this dress - love it!! Thank you so much for another great design. Going out for dinner tonight, wearing my new dress.
Anita commented on 07-Nov-2015 05:03 PM
Hi Louise. It's so good to hear you have made it and I hope you have a wonderful evening. :) If possible can we see a few photos? If you don't have a blog, etc. pls feel free to post them to my Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/Studio-Faro-464204903600087 Or email them if that's easier - enquiries@studiofaro.com
patrick commented on 05-Oct-2016 11:48 PM
I'm very excited to find this site. but please I want to ask can any material do this type of dress or there's a specific material for sewing it?
Anita - studiofaro commented on 07-Oct-2016 10:39 AM
Hi Patrick, thanks for dropping by. These instructions are based on a women's fitted block for woven fabric. You could cut this design in a stretch fabric but then you would have to start your pattern making with a stretch dress block and you probably wouldn't need a zip in the CB. Let me know if you have any questions as you cut your pattern. :)
Taiwo commented on 06-Nov-2016 04:27 PM
Hi!you people are certainly doing a great job. We appreciate your efforts from Nigeria.We would love to see you post something on grading as well.Thanks
Anita - studiofaro commented on 07-Nov-2016 12:45 PM
Hi Talwo, thanks for dropping by and your lovely compliments. :) I have one post that has some grading information. http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited/grade-rules-gil-brandao-conjunto-pratico
I will keep the idea for a future post. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm always happy to help.

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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