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Pattern Puzzle - Issey Miyake Single Twist

Saturday, April 16, 2016
Does anyone remember this little pattern puzzle from last year?   It's been a long time waiting in the wings for posting.  An innovation on an existing theme, this single twist is ingenious in that a cowl is built as part of the twist pattern.   The final effect being a more subtle twist with a relaxed fit.  If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns.  For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.  My Knit Block is also available as a PDF download.
Issey Miyake single jersey twist pattern.
Julie started it all -  Issey Miyake and other favourites.
Most definitely not my idea but bought to my attention by Julie of jet Set Sewing.  Here she is below with the only existing photo of this very special pattern.  Intrigued by the weird shape I was determined to work out how that genius Issey Miyake made this pattern.  The other thing I like about this top is you get the twist without revealing too much décolletage.  Always a win!

Julie of Jet Set Sewing.
To make this pattern you'll need my knit block or a pattern for a basic women's tee:
  1. Trace out my knit block as a half front beside a half back and sleeve.
  2. Add length to your block:  5-6cm (2-2 ⅜") past the hipline for your top.
  3. Loosen the fit of the body of the block by dropping and extending the underarm point by 2cm (⅝") in each direction.  If your tee shirt pattern is already a loose fit this adjustment will not be necessary.
  4. Re-draw your front and back side seam with a more relaxed fit through the waist.
  5. Make corresponding changes to the underarm point of the sleeve:  drop and extend the underarm point by 2cm (⅝") in each direction.  Again, if your tee shirt pattern is already a loose fit this alteration will not be necessary.
  6. Re-draw the sleeve seams, shaping from the new underarm point through to a three-quarter length sleeve with a looser fit.
  7. Create shape on the CB seam by 1cm (⅜") at the waist line: shaping back to the hipline and mid back area.  This shaping resembles a half dart shape on the centre back seam.
  8. Mark in the cut lines for the front cowl, above the underarm point, up to the neckline area.
My Knit Block
To make your pattern pieces:
  1. Cut the cowl lines in the front block and open up until the front neck point meets the back neck point. 
  2. The front block with cowl is placed at a right angle (90 degree) to the back block.
  3. Cut two of this new pattern shape to make the final pattern piece.
Single Twist Jersey
For the final pattern:
  1. Join the two identical pattern pieces together along the centre front cowl line as the diagram below.
  2. In this example I've placed the grain line, using the back pattern as the guide.  I'm not certain this is the best location until I make the first sample, however it's probably the best fit on most fabrics.
  3. Copy the three-quarter sleeve and add a grain line.
  4. Cut a bind piece for the front and back neck.  Until I make the sample I'll not be sure if a bind finish is the best option for the neckline. 
Final Sewing Patterns
The best fabric for this job would be a two-way stretch knit that's good both sides.  However it may also work on some one-way stretch fabrics.  Only testing will reveal the best option.  
 Let me know if you have any questions about making this pattern.  I'm always happy to help. :)

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Comments
Julie of JetSetSewing.com commented on 17-Apr-2016 06:06 AM
Hi Anita, what fun to see an explanation of this unique pattern! That reminds me that I'll need to make a new one for our upcoming summer.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 18-Apr-2016 10:07 AM
Thanks Julie, it's my pleasure to share this. It's all thanks to you for taking a photo of that unique pattern. Apparently there is a skirt pattern in this set, mentioned by someone on Facebook. Have you ever seen it?
Lugene commented on 22-Apr-2016 06:03 PM
This is really cool! Thanks for your analysis...I'm going on a retreat soon and my goal is knit tops. I look forward to trying this!
Anita - studiofaro commented on 23-Apr-2016 02:25 PM
Thanks for dropping by Lugene. :) I hope you enjoy your retreat and get lots of sewing done. Let me know if you have any questions.
Anonymous commented on 11-Jun-2016 02:43 PM
Wow really want to try making it very different like it a lot
Anita - studiofaro commented on 13-Jun-2016 11:16 AM
Thanks Anon :) Send me photos if you try it. :)
Anja commented on 11-Sep-2016 09:53 PM
What a bummer... I cut out the fabric and puzzled trying to figure out how to fold it. It did not work. Now I read that you need fabric that is good on both sides....
Anita - studiofaro commented on 14-Sep-2016 12:31 PM
Hi Anja, thanks for dropping by. Maybe it's not as bad as you think. For most people cannot tell the difference and many knits are not so different from both sides. Finiah it up and then decide if it's wearable. So much of my wardrobe is sample garments that are not quite right. It's all part of the process. :)
Zieneke commented on 21-Mar-2017 10:42 PM
Hi. I just made up a mini sample. It is so cute! I see how the one side is the wrong side of the fabric and the other is the right side. It is true it may not be noticeable depending on the knit. But...it seems the puzzle could go a little further? Perhaps, adding another seam? Has anyone tried this? How to achieve all right sides facing out?
Anita - studiofaro commented on 22-Mar-2017 03:49 PM
Hi Zieneke, thanks for dropping by. :) You can try so many other methods to make the twist. My Jersey twit post covers a double twist so you can use most fabric. http://www.studiofaro.com/resources-and-downloads/pattern-making-worksheets-downloads/jersey-twist-patterns-1

I'd love to see a photo of your sample if you'd like to share to Facebook or email to me.

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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