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Pattern Puzzle - Random Tucks and Pleats

Monday, September 01, 2014
The Saturday #PatternPuzzle was the usual flurry of answers and great ideas from all our fans.   This weeks bias cut dress with asymmetric placement of large tucks is fast becoming a favourite and already the pattern has been made for the first toile. Random Tuck Drape Dress Pattern
This design would be cut in a woven fabric, with a reasonably close fit to keep the tucks in place on the body.  

Starting with my Fitted Dress block, trace out to the desired length then:
  1. Add 1 cm to the shoulder length and adjust the underarm seam for a sleeveless style.
  2. Draw in the boat neckline, front and back.
  3. Add 2.5cm (1") flare to the hemline at each side seam, front and back.
  4. Mark in the reduction of the sleeveless armhole with gape darts, front and back.
  5. Mark in the position and direction of the body tucks, matching them through at the side seams from the front to the back.
  6. Under the bottom right tuck on the front dress, mark in the seam and position of the left side pleats.
  7. Shape the CB seam in the waist area.
Random tucks patten plan.
Cut open the pattern along the tuck lines to add extra fabric for the tucks and pleats.  Fold out all the dart allowance where possible and regulate the amount of fabric in each of the pleats.  
Tuck Drape Dress
For the final pattern add a grain line that keeps the tucks close to the bias grain for best drape.  The zip will be in the CB seam.
Tucked Drape Dress Patterns
As out first calico toile comes together we will keep you all posted.  Don't hesitate to ask your questions in the comment section below.
Enjoy :)

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Comments
Temy commented on 29-Jun-2015 02:23 PM
Thanks so much. But I would like to know what you did with the darts in front part of the bodice. Can't really tell on the diagram
Anonymous commented on 29-Jun-2015 04:47 PM
Hi Temy. thanks for dropping by. The waist and bust darts in the front and back bodice are closed to open the area for the large tucks. If you look closely you can see the dashed lines where the darts used to be. :)

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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