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Pattern Puzzle - The Cowl Tube Top

Monday, November 10, 2014
It's a mean thing to present the fans with a rectangle as a #PatternPuzzle and expect them to describe the garment.  In my defence I did include a couple of very small notches as a clue.  In the end Mioara was able to produce an almost exact image of the idea in knit fabric. I think we may have been reading the same pattern making books.  :) I found this image on pinterest but have had no luck finding the original source material.  If anyone knows the origin of this piece I would love to be able to include the correct information here.Self-draft rectangle Patterns
Addendum:  'Catdoesit' has found the reference for us:
'That page is from a Portuguese sewing book, from the series 'curso de corte e costura Gil Brandao.'   '…but i don't have any proper reference as it is ancient.'

So I had a look and found the exact reference to the Cowl Tube Top.
Page 33 of the print book and page 29 on the pdf.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/78084241/25-Modelos-de-Blusas-e-Blusoes-Gil-Brandao

 There are so many ideas out there that turn a simple rectangle into a elegant garment.  Rhonda's Creative Life has a regular series of rectangle pattern projects.  There are also a couple of rectangle puzzles in this blog:

I do love a bit of graph paper when trying to scale up new patterns.  The Scale I have worked with here is 2mm:1cm.  To draft this rectangle you need the following measurements:
  • Tunic length from High Neck Point - 70cm
  • Bust or Hip Measurement plus ease - use the biggest of the two measurements - 100 + 10 = 110cm
  • Allowance for the Cowl Neck above the shoulder line - 30cm
Original Drafting Detail

Drafting the basic Rectangle
From a centre line:
  1. Mark tunic length of 70cm and a cowl depth of 30cm (total 100cm).
  2. At a right angle to the centre line mark out quarter hip/bust measurement (plus ease) to complete your drafting rectangle.
  3. At the 70 cm line mark a right angle across the rectangle as neck level.
  4. Mark out 7cm from the centre for half neck width.
  5. Angle the shoulder line from this point toward the side edge at a 19 degree angle.
  6. Measure down from this point for half the armhole measurement.  This graphic suggests 16cm but I know I will need more than 32cm to have a comfortable fit in the armhole.  In my own draft I used 18cm (36cm).
Notches on this pattern.

Trace out the full pattern, marking the pocket positions for the front and armhole notches on both seams.  Cut two of the large rectangle and two pocket pieces to complete the garment.

Final patterns tube cowl top.

For future investigations I have unearthed two US patents from the mid 1950's that are based on a similar concept with small structural differences.  I call them The Trio of Tube Tops.  Watch this space for more. 
Please leave your questions in the comments section below.  I love to hear from you.
Enjoy :)

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Comments
ŞUKRIYE commented on 15-Mar-2015 12:24 AM
modellerınız cok güzel ben istanbulda kalıp ofısı moda tasarım actım sızın gıbı usta ellerden almak benı cok mutlu eder sızınle yazısmak ısterım bana yol göstermenızı ısterım
Anonymous commented on 16-Mar-2015 10:34 AM
Hi Sukriye. Thanks for dropping by the blog. I had some teaching worksheets for sale on the website. So far only small number. More teaching materials will be added over the next few months. Pls subscribe to website to hear news. :)

Blog bırakarak için teşekkür ederiz. Web sitesinde satışı için bazı öğretim çalışma sayfaları vardı. Şimdiye kadar sadece az sayıda. Daha öğretim materyalleri önümüzdeki birkaç ay içinde eklenecektir. Pls haberleri duymak için web sitesine abone olun. :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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