So many fans dropped by on Saturday to work on our #PatternPuzzle, the
conversation went on for most of the day. And it seems it is the
anonymous pattern shapes that cause the greatest dilemma. After all
they could be almost anything.
It's warm and cuddly, and it's reminiscent of the 1920's and Paul
Poiret. The Dolman Coat is based on a woven kimono block and the dolman
feature is specific to the drape in the underarm area that reaches from
the hem of the coat to the wrist.
- From wikipedia - 'A dolman sleeve is a sleeve set into a
very low armscye; in fact the armscye may extend to the waistline, in
which case there will be no underarm seam in the blouse.'
- From the dictionary - 'A kind of sleeve for a coat or dress, tapering from a wide opening at the armhole to a narrow one at the wrist.'
Traced out below is my knit kimono block
, front and back together, laid out
as a full pattern for this asymmetric design. Please note the important
1cm difference between the front and the back on the shoulder/overarm
seam. To maintain balance in this simple shape it is essential that the
back is higher than the front by 1cm. Without it your garment will
always lift in the front and drag towards the back.
Mark in the lines connecting the front neck to hem on the right side of
the garment and the sleeves to the hemline, both sides. Please note the
hemline is marked as very narrow to create tension in the front line of
the garment. The shape on the left side of the garment is a wrap with a
near right angle at the waist level. Mark a sleeve opening back along
the overarm seam - approx. 14-15cm (5 1/2-6").
Trace out the back pattern shape, noting the CB line as a grain line
reference. Trace out the front right and left pattern pieces and add
them to the back pattern to make one large pattern. There is an
advantage in placing the underarm line on the bias grain of the cloth.
If this pattern ends up too big for the cloth, a CB seam is very
Trace the entire pattern, cleaning up the hemline/front edge of the coat
to a straight line. Smooth the point in the sleeve openings to a
curve, between the notches. This should make a more attractive sleeve
Please note the alternate grain lines suggested on the pattern. If the
grain runs at a right angle to the CB line then the underarm area
(dolman) is on the bias grain for the best drape. However if you need
to reduce waste in your fabric usage, you can place the grain line
parallel to the hemline/front edge. This will allow better interlocking
of other sizes in the cutting layout.
The finish on the sleeve openings needs an open seam for the overarm
that will fold back and lead into a hem for the sleeve openings. The
finish for the neckline and outside edge of the jacket would be a narrow
self-facing. If possible, this coat would look great cut in a double
face fabric using a self-bind finish for the outside edge.
Hope you enjoy the post and let me know if you have any questions through the comments section below.