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Pattern Puzzle - The Drape Shift Woven

Monday, November 24, 2014
The original Drape Shift #PatternPuzzle post has turned out to be the best performing of all our blog posts over the past two years. It has pattern making instructions for the knit version of this design which is admittedly far more straight forward than the woven fabric version featured in this post. So in response to many requests I have detailed here the pattern making instructions to make this design for woven fabrics.  Drape Dress Sewing Pattern
 Starting with my Fitted Dress Block:
  1. Mark in the sleeveless armhole (front & back) with the side seam changes and necessary gape darts.
  2. Mark in the asymmetric front neckline and draw in the angle and direction of the drape seam toward the right side hip area.  Mark the seam end near the hip line.
  3. Straighten the side seam from the underarm to the hip.
  4. Taper the side seam from the hip to the hem line.
  5. Mark in the back neckline to match through from the front.
  6. Mark in the back yoke line near the shoulder dart ends.
  7. Now mark in the cut lines (dashed lines) that connect to the darts.  This is where we will be introducing the drape from the dart shaping. 
Pattern plan for the Drape Shift
  1. Cut along these lines for the front and back. 
  2. Close all darting (bust, waist and gape darts) transferring the shape into the cut lines.
  3. Join the front right side seam to the back right side seam at the underarm point.
  4. Join the front and back pieces at the hemline and balance the two patterns to get the front seam lines close together.
  5. And finally lift the front seam lines together to introduce more drape into the front dress.
  6. Trace the back yoke pieces onto the front shoulder lines.
  7. Make an allowance in the back yoke seam for a generous inverted pleat.
  8. This is your completed pattern shape.

First pattern developments for this drape pattern.
  1. Place your grain lines to maximise the benefits of the bias grain for the drape in the dress.  Here I have placed the bias gain below the front seam where the majority of the drape is located.  
  2. For the construction and finish of this design you could bind or face the armhole and neckline.  Much will depend on the fabric you use.  
  3. There may be a zipper included in the one side seam on the left side of the dress.  It is possible the narrow hem may restrict easy access without a zipper.
  4. Use any weave that is soft and drapey.  Avoid crisp woven fabrics as they will stick out, look bulky and not at all elegant.
Final Patterns Drape Shift

Let me know if you have any questions through the comments section below.  It's your questions that help tease out the finer detail in the patten making.
Enjoy  :)

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Comments
neki ivera commented on 26-Aug-2015 04:07 AM
Hi Anita,
found your blog & facebook page and i'm thoroughly enjoying them.
i am daring to venture into high pattern manipulation when i just taught myself how to draft basic blocks!
my question is could i use a silk crepe fabric for the knit block version.
with my limited knowledge i can visualize the manipulations better.
thank you for all the knowledge transfer.
best,
neki
Anita - studiofaro commented on 26-Aug-2015 05:50 PM
Hi neki, thanks for dropping by. If you had a dartless dress block for wovens it might work. If you go to the original post you will see a couple of links to posts when sewers have made the design. I think one as woven and one was knit - http://studiofaro-wellsuited.blogspot.com.au/2013/12/pattern-puzzle-drape-shift.html The block you recently drafted; does it have bust and waist darts?
neki ivera commented on 26-Aug-2015 07:35 PM
Hi Anita,.
yes it does have darts :( maybe i should draft a dartless block?
thanks for your reply and patience with this semi clueless one.
Anita commented on 28-Aug-2015 12:51 PM
Hi Neki. Would you consider using your darted block with these instructions? It's very similar to the knit version and would make beautifully in the silk crepe. :)
neki ivera commented on 29-Aug-2015 01:08 AM
hi Anita,
yes,i decided to work with the darted block. chugging along ok. however having issues transposing the yoke to the front. missing a line of instruction.from the drawing i see that it needs to be cut, but it's not stated in the instructions and i'm stuck there.
i also see that one side of the v neck front gets cut and attached to the back. right?
sorry for the dumbness!i think i'm flying before learning to walk.
best,


neki
Anita commented on 29-Aug-2015 02:57 PM
Hi neki, sounds like you are going along well. In the puzzle post I have attached the back yoke to the whole pattern but that is not absolutely necessary in every case. I do that to simply make the pattern weird. A separate eke cut on the straight grain would probably be a better idea. Then you can cut it double for a better finish and to support the dress. And yes the front right side of the pattern is attached to the back pattern at the underarm point. :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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