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Pattern Puzzle - Twist Overlay

Friday, February 26, 2016
Did you ever think there'd be so many designs using Twist Drape?  I was totally captivated with the asymmetric aspect of this design and the layering effects that can be achieved using two different fabrics and my knit block.  Like the majority of previous twists you'll definitely need a two-way stretch knit for this to work well.  The elastane (Lycra/Spandex) in your knit fabric is the best tool for achieving a snug fit with this method of making twist patterns.  If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns.  For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.
Twist Overlay
This particular dress design has one back pattern, one sleeve pattern and two front patterns.  The two front patterns are made up of a halter neck underdress and the twist overlay. They connect at the side seams only.  Using my knit block, or similar commercial pattern:
  1. Trace a full front and half back and sleeve for your pattern plan.
  2. For the front twist overdress I've placed the twist on the waist line, at centre front, with an overlap between right and left sides of about 6-8cm in total.
  3. Taper (3cm) the side seams from hip to hemline for front and back.
  4. Draw in your drape lines from this location, radiating out to the side seams.  These lines indicate where the drape will be after the twist is sewn in place.
  5. Please note that the hem of the overdress is asymmetric; much lower on the right side and higher near the hip on the left side of the dress.
  6. The halter neck underdress is sleeveless with a gape dart in the armhole to improve fit.
  7. Add the extension for the back halter neck onto the front straps.
  8. Alter the back neckline to meet with the shoulder line of the overdress with a small gape dart near the shoulder.
  9. Add shape to the CB seam at the waist line (1cm), taper to hip and shoulder blade.
  10. Alter the knit block sleeve for a slim fit through to the wrist.
Twist Pattern Making
Trace your final pattern pieces:
  1. Trace the front underdress, back and sleeve patterns allowing for the gape dart alteration.
  2. For the front overdress trace the left side front shape, including the drape lines.  
  3. Then separately trace the right side front  shape of the overdress and include all the drape lines.
  4. Cut along all drape lines and position as the sketch below to develop your twist pattern.
  5. For heavy knits add less extras fabric in the twist.  For light knits add more extra fabric in the twist.
  6. This front overdress will be turned twice to make the twist before it's joined to the side seams of the dress. 
  7. Add hem and seam allowances that suit your particular machines and techniques.

Pattern making development.
I hope you all enjoyed this pattern making post.  Let me know if you'd like to try this particular design.  I'm always here to answer any of your questions.  :)

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Comments
Anonymous commented on 10-Jan-2017 08:28 AM
Thank you very much, an amazing website. I just fell in love with this dress. This was my first experience in building patterns of their own. Very unusual happened.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 10-Jan-2017 09:29 AM
I'm so pleased to hear you like it. :) Did you make this one? I'd love to see photos of your sample.

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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