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Pattern Puzzle - Wrap Layer Top #1

Tuesday, May 19, 2015
The designs used in last Saturdays #PatternPuzzle conversation are the surplus design developments from the Layered Shirt post of a few weeks ago.  They have been lying around on the work table all that time and I didn't have the heart to throw them out.  Then I realised, that was because I really wanted these two tops for myself.  They were just the kind of thing I needed in my wardrobe.  Saved from the shredder, these designs are similar but different enough to entice you to make both.  I will be dealing with them in two separate posts to make sure I cover all the detail. :) Wrap Layer Top
Working with my fitted dress block, trace up a full front for asymmetric styling and a half back:
  1. Mark in the new shoulder seam width according to your own style.  I have placed my narrowed shoulder (4-5cm 1⅝- 2") wide on the shoulder-line in this case.
  2. Reduce the Underarm Point (UAP) by 1cm for sleeveless styles.  Then drop the UAP 1-1.5cm for summer comfort.
  3. Shape the front and back neckline as indicated in the design.  The CF neckline shape connects with the horizontal dart-seam in the front top.
  4. Mark in the back yoke line making an allowance for the transfer of the shoulder dart into this seam.
  5. Add the CB pleat (5cm/2" on the half) onto the CB line below the yoke and mark through to hemline.  The back hemline is 10cm (4") below the hip line.
  6. Mark the hemline through to the front (2cm (¾") below the hip line), keeping the CB slightly lower than the side seams (6cm (2⅜"") below the hip line) that are slightly lower the the front.
  7. Mark in the front horizontal seam above the bust by 4-5cm (1⅝-2").  This line is easily moved if you prefer the feature to be below the bust line.
  8. Draw in the front wrap and drape feature to the scale that suits your pattern.  Please note the wrap covers the area between the bust points at the horizontal seam.
Wrap Layer Top
The pattern development above shows:
  1. The bust darts used in the front to create fullness in the hemline.
  2. The addition of the front drape in the wrap by opening up the front pattern.
  3. The transfer of the back shoulder dart into the yoke seam.
  4. The back hemline increased to give this top the loose fit around the seat.
  5. Keeping the front shoulder area attached to the main pattern will mean sewing a horizontal dart seam across the front of the garment.  The finishing of this dart shape seam is crucial to it sitting flat on the wearer.
  6. If that is all too much, then extending the dart seam into a yoke seam is very acceptable and definitely more production friendly.
  7. Because we need to block fuse the front neckline facing it would be wise to stabilise the back neckline during making.  This can be done by using Tear-away on the neck seam.  Must be removed before finishing the garment - hence the tear-away reference.
  8. To finish the last section of the armhole (front and back) use an inside bind to finish at 6mm (¼").
Use my fitted dress block.
The final pattern pieces are set out above with grain line and pattern notations.  With this style I would use 1.25cm (½") seam allowances to make either open seams or french seams depending not he fabric used.   All turn-back edges will have a 6mm (¼") seam allowance and hem allowances of 1.25cm (½") for a rolled hem finishing 6mm (¼").

 Hoping you all enjoy this first instalment of the Wrap Layer Tops.  Let me know if you have any questions, I'm always happy to help.  :)

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Comments
Anonymous commented on 20-May-2015 10:48 AM
Hi Morgan, I am hoping you receive or see this comment. I am so sorry to have accidentally deleted your comment when I was dealing with the spam in the back end of the website. I don't seem to be able to retrieve it. :/ I did get a chance to read it and I thank you for your generous compliments. I am so happy to hear these blog posts inspire. :)
Anonymous commented on 20-May-2015 10:56 AM
Comment from Morgan (accidentally deleted :/) - 'It's a lovely design on more than one level and I have to try this one. Top of the project list for when a house project is (hopefully) completed in about 3 weeks. I look forward to seeing the next one. Thankyou so much for your pattern making articles. For me it's a great source of inspiration and encouragement.'
Kimbersew commented on 22-May-2015 09:56 PM
Looking at the back of this top: would it be feasible to cut the back as one piece, adding a CB seam to the upper 'yoke' portion, pivoting the shoulder dart to the horizontal between the shoulder-blades? in essence, a horizontal fish-eye incorporating the CB pleat. inspired by the shaping of your front. Or would it not be strong enough? Can you see what I mean? I am fascinated by your work, thank you!
Anonymous commented on 22-May-2015 10:17 PM
Hi Kim, thanks for dropping by the blog. Your comment is wonderful! Everything you describe is possible. I believe it would be strong enough and totally in keeping with the design. My preference for back yokes allows me to cut double and give the shoulder line of the top some form and strength. However not absolutely necessary. I really like your version. Do you think you will make this design?
Gail Le Bransky commented on 24-May-2015 11:36 AM
Love this Anita. Definitely give it a try when I resize my dress block.
Anonymous commented on 25-May-2015 02:39 PM
Thanks Gail. :) It was great to see you Saturday. Have you considered grading your dress block down a few sizes? That way your may be able to hang onto all those personal fit changes. Just saying...
S.Elshoff commented on 26-May-2015 12:22 AM
I'd like to make this...but I can't do it without a sice...how?
Anonymous commented on 26-May-2015 08:11 AM
Hi S.Elshoff, thanks for dropping by the blog. Not sure what a sice is?
SintaAsrin commented on 09-Jul-2015 12:23 AM
the design is very pretty and brilliant! I
Will definitely make one for my daughter.. Will get back to you soon
Anonymous commented on 10-Jul-2015 10:42 AM
Hi Sinta, thx for dropping by. I'd love to hear when you have made it. :) I like to pin MAKERS from these blog posts to a pinterest album if you are happy to be included. If you have questions as you go along, please feel free to ask through this comments section. :)
Andrea commented on 15-Aug-2015 10:40 PM
This design looks awesome, and I can't wait to try it out. I've only just discovered you thanks to Handmade by Carolyn, and am hooked already!
Anita commented on 19-Aug-2015 01:40 PM
Hi Andrea, thanks for dropping by. :) I'm very lucky to have someone like Carolyn to showcase how these pattern making instructions can be imagined to suit your own style. She has the best blog! :)
Amanda commented on 28-Nov-2016 09:56 AM
Just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your blog. I am a self taught seamstress/ designer and without your blog I really don't know how I would be able to keep up with working out all the new styles. It's very unusual for sites to give all the info required the way you do, so please know that the service that you provide is much appreciated..
Anita McAdam commented on 28-Nov-2016 10:54 AM
Hi Amanda, thanks for your lovely compliments. :) I'm pleased you enjoy my work.
Maggie commented on 01-Mar-2017 05:54 AM
Another thank you for your generosity with so much excellent information designed for learning. I found you on Pinterest and am planning on trying out a few of your designs as soon as I get time. Just wanted to say thank you very much indeed.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 01-Mar-2017 11:56 AM
Hi Maggie, thanks for dropping by with your lovely comments. Remember I've just added my garment blocks to the website (you'll find under DOWNLOADS). So now you're able to try the pattern puzzles using the same blocks I have in my studio. And i also have pattern making worksheets if you'd like some more in-depth pattern making information. :)

Let me know if you have any questions. I'm always happy to help.

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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