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Pattern Puzzles - Balenciaga Blouse

Monday, October 27, 2014
The inspiration behind this weeks #PatternPuzzle post is this divinely simple vintage blouse by Balenciaga (circa. 1958-60) found in the MetMuseum online collections.  It has been sitting in my stash of great ideas for #PatternPuzzles for over a year. Balenciaga Blouse


You will notice I have played with the proportions a little in the placement of the yoke seam.  My concern with the high yoke seam is that it might give a heavy effect to the bust area so I lowered it to the bust line.
  1. Using a fitted block, trace out a full front and mark in the yoke seam along the bust line.  
  2. The 'V' neckline crosses over at the Centre Front (CF) by 5cm.  
  3. The wrap in the lower bodice is about 13-14cm past the CF line.
  4. The blouse length looks to be just below the waist.  I have drawn in the back blouse length 6-7 cm below the waistline.
  5. Continue the blouse hem through to the front, dropping into a lower point.
  6. Please note the gape darting in the neckline. armhole and front wrap.
  7. Alter the block to suit a sleeveless style.

Pattern Plan Balenciaga Blouse

Lift the front pattern pieces closing the bust, waist and gape darts to achieve the two final shapes.  You can decide to use the waist dart in the back bodice or not depending on the fit you prefer.

Pattern development for vintage blouse sewing pattern.

The final pattern pieces below use the conventional grain line placement and cutting instructions.  It looks like the original is at least lined with the addition of facings for the hem edge.  

Final sewing pattern pieces.

The vintage style is a sweet blouse that could easily be lengthened to a low hip position.  Let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below.  We love to hear from you.
Enjoy :)

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Comments
Digs commented on 14-Feb-2015 01:01 AM
In browsing your archives I was surprised to see this top as it's so similar I'd developed in 2010 for a variation on a sleeveless tee (http://straightjacketmuse.blogspot.ca/2010/11/slicing-and-dicing-simple-tnt.html). My pattern conceals the bust dart in the horizontal front seam, and repeats the lower overlapping idea at the back, making for a very breezy top. Also, I've recently started to play with your draping developments, and will be referring to your site as I post them. Thank you for your very interesting and generous work!
Anita - studiofaro commented on 14-Feb-2015 09:56 AM
Hi Digs, thanks for dropping in and sharing your comments. Your blouse looks exactly the same as the Balenciaga style. Isn't that an amazing coincidence considering all the options we have for pattern making. :) I really like your conversation about grain on the wrap piece. So good to experiment and get such great results in your garments.

Let me know if you have any questions when working with your drape. Always happy to help. :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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