Using my skirt block that is two sizes smaller than your usual to end up with a fit that has negative ease suitable for stretch fabric.
In this case approx. 5cm in negative ease would suit a two way stretch fabric. Then to build you pattern prepare your pattern plan as follows:
- Lower the skirt waistline.
- Select the full length past the knee and add the extra length.
- Shape the front hemline up towards the CF to suit the sketch.
- Taper the side seams 3cm each side at the hem, back to the hip line.
- Mark in a shaped waistband of 4cm deep.
- Draw in the front section of the skirt with lines radiating from under the waistband to the hem.
- Then draw in the lines for the rucking that comes from the side seam to the CF.
- Firstly trace the back skirt transferring al the dart shaping to the side seam.
- Then add the front horizontal sections to the back eliminating all darts and side seam shaping.
- Then working on the centre front portion, spread the sections to allow for gather in the CF panel and some fullness in the from hemline only. Add fold back section from edge of gather to CF line.
- Finally pull all the pieces together to make one final pattern piece including the front and the back.
The final pattern has a contour waistband and one main skirt pattern for the front and the back (cut on CF fold). The large curve in the pattern is gathered and joined to the CF turnback. This is then folded back to the CF to support the front gathers to the hem. Use medium weight stretch interlining for the waistband. Depending on your stretch knit, you may need an invisible zip in the CB opening.
Hoping you all enjoy this new #PatternPuzzle and feel free to comment or email me if you have any questions. Enjoy :)