well-suited

Pattern Puzzle | Cut The Trends | Pattern Fundamentals | Pattern Insights | Pattern Fix | First Sample | Design & Illustration | Vintage Patterns | well-suited archive

Sleeve Pattern Alterations - Boat Neck Tee

Thursday, July 04, 2019

If you'd like to get yourself a classic Tee-shirt pattern, my Boat Neck Tee pattern is not overly tight, with soft shaping on the side seam, a boat neckline and three-quarter sleeves.  For most of us the first pattern alteration, depending on the weather, will be sleeve length alterations.

At the moment it's well and truly warm in the northern hemisphere.  So we'll start with the short sleeve version.  When I'm making short sleeve patterns for industry, my usual starting point for sleeve length is around 20cm (8") long.

Boat Neck Tee

Trace the three-quarter sleeve from your pattern print, including all notches and grain line.  Measure down from the top of the sleeve head for 20cm (8"), plus the 7mm (¼") seam allowance that is included at he top of the sleeve.  Mark in a line across the width of the sleeve, at right angles to the grain line, at the 20cm level.

Add your hem allowance of 2cm (¾"), below the sleeve length line.  When working with knit fabrics, it's best not to add larger hem depths unless absolutely necessary.  Deeper hems in knit fabric often suffer from 'roping', which is a twist like distortion in the finished hem.

To finish off your pattern, it's important that the hem fold fits back inside the sleeve shape.  To make the best shape, you can fold the hem up into it's final position and trace the outside edge of the pattern.  This is often referred to as mirroring back on your hem allowance.  Your short sleeve pattern is now ready to use.

Now for the rest of us that are experiencing cooler temperatures, the instructions to draft yourself a long sleeve pattern.  Begin by tracing the original three quarter length sleeve and extend the grain line for a full-length sleeve.  It's best to take your own sleeve measurement for this part of the alteration.  You can also take your favourite long sleeve tee and take a measurement from that to get the desired length.  On average, for a Australian size 10-12, I'd make my long sleeves 62cm (24 ½") long, not including seam and hem allowances.   Mark in a line across the width of the sleeve, at right angles to the grain line, at your long sleeve length.  Add a 2cm (¾") hem allowance below the sleeve length line.  

On the sleeve length line, mark the width of the sleeve opening for your long sleeve.  Again, for an Australian size 10-12, I'd make the sleeve opening 20cm (8").  That equals the wrist measurement plus 3-4cm (1¼ -1⅝") ease.  Now that you have the sleeve opening set for your long sleeve, you can add your seam allowance (7mm/¼") to each side of the opening.

Now connect these marks back to the original sleeve seams, on both sides of your pattern.  Mirror back the sleeve shape, on the hem depth, to complete your long sleeve pattern.

Now you're ready to cut yourself a long sleeve tee for the cooler months.  My sample is cut from a little leftover merino knit, in three colours, for a casual tee.

Long Sleeve pattern for Boat Neck Tee.

If you have any questions about this post, or my Boat Neck Tee pattern, don't hesitate to leave your questions in the comments section below.  I'm always happy to help.  :)

If you'd like to share your photos of this tee-shirt you can join my Facebook group, or Instagram.  To be sure I see the posts please use my handle @studiofaro or the hashtag #BoatNeckTee.

Share this blog post:





Comments
Post has no comments.
Post a Comment




Captcha Image

Trackback Link
http://www.studiofaro.com/BlogRetrieve.aspx?BlogID=8267&PostID=738685&A=Trackback
Trackbacks
Post has no trackbacks.


RSS

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

Recent Posts


FREE Members Area Articles - Become a Member


SEWING PATTERNS

All My Sewing Patterns
These are the first of my sewing patterns as PDF downloads for you to buy and sew.  The more I sell the more time I have to make new ones.  So if you fancy supporting the work I do here on the well-suited blog, this is your opportunity.  These patterns are based on my size chart listed here on the website.


ALL MY GARMENT BLOCKS

All my garment blocks.
Garment blocks are the basic template we use to make fashion patterns.  They are not patterns in themselves as they have no design detail.  My garment blocks also don't have any seam allowances as they are never sewn together once the fit is perfected.  If you look at any of my Pattern Puzzle posts you'll see that I usually start with a block then modify to achieve my new design idea.  These garment blocks are also based on my size chart as required for the mass production of fashion clothing.


WORKSHEETS - PDF DOWNLOADS

Illustration And Pattern Making Worksheets
My fashion design, illustration and pattern making worksheets and instructions are based on the teaching methods and blocks used at Studio Faro in my workshops & workbooks.  Subscribe to receive email updates.

About Studio Faro

The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


Back to Top