well-suited blog - fashion design, illustration, pattern making.

Sewing Instructions for The Patent Blouse

Wednesday, September 18, 2019

Now that this pattern has been released on the website, it's time to put up some sewing instructions. At first the pattern shape appears weird and unusual, as it did for me when I first found this little beauty at the US patent office. The original blog post describes my process - Pattern Puzzle - The Patent Blouse. When cutting your own Patent Blouse, please make sure you use two-way stretch knit for the best results (four-way stretch knit in the US).

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The Patent Blouse Sewing Pattern

Monday, July 08, 2019

This unusual sewing pattern has been featured on my blog for a very long time. As early as December, 2013. Right from the very beginning it's been a favourite. I've made myself at least eight of these tops in a great variety of fabrics: merino/lycra, viscose/elastane, cotton/elastane and rayon/elastane. It's really important to understand that all fabrics for my samples are two-way stretch jersey (four-way in the US) with some elastane content (lycra/spandex). My favourites are the merino/elastane, with a soft, draped handle in both red and black. You can get yourself a copy of this amazing sewing pattern, here on my website: The Patent Blouse Sizes XS-XXL. Keep Reading...

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Sleeve Pattern Alterations - Boat Neck Tee

Thursday, July 04, 2019

If you'd like to get yourself a classic Tee-shirt pattern, my Boat Neck Tee pattern is not overly tight, with soft shaping on the side seam, a boat neckline and three-quarter sleeves. For most of us the first pattern alteration, depending on the weather, will be sleeve length alterations. Keep Reading...

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Boat Neck Tee Pattern

Saturday, September 22, 2018

This pattern is one of my 'Off-the-Rails' sewing patterns that I've worked with for many years. The Boat Neck Tee is a wardrobe classic when cut in a plain cloth and seriously quirky when you mix your print and plain knit fabrics. Although the image below is of a half sleeve tee-shirt, the pattern comes with a three-quarter sleeve. I'll be adding a post to the blog very soon showing the sleeve pattern alterations for short and long sleeves. Keep Reading...

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Pattern Puzzle - Triple Twist Jersey Dress

Monday, May 07, 2018

Here we have another re-issue of my very early Pattern Puzzle posts. I've up-dated the images and improved the instructions. I'm really enjoyed the regular Saturday morning Pattern Puzzles on my facebook page and hope to return to them sometime soon. Here is the sketch, pattern plan and pattern pieces for the front of the Triple Twist Jersey dress. Please note this style only works with my knit block and two-way stretch jersey fabric.

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Stretch Skirt Block and Design Options

Tuesday, April 04, 2017

Following on from the Skirt Block and Design Options post I've separated skirt designs that use a stretch skirt block to start your pattern development. You can use my skirt block to make a stretch skirt block to use with all these pattern puzzle posts. Some of them have been sampled and those sample posts are also included here. Keep Reading...

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Making the Most of My Knit Block

Monday, January 09, 2017

My Knit Block will make all these Pattern Puzzles:

This post has been curated to bring the focus to my garment blocks now available on the website. They are the same blocks I use in my pattern puzzles and the same basic blocks that for the foundation of commercial pattern making. The first block for the spotlight is my Knit Block.

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Pattern Puzzle - Issey Miyake Single Twist

Saturday, April 16, 2016

Does anyone remember this little pattern puzzle from last year? It's been a long time waiting in the wings for posting. An innovation on an existing theme, this single twist is ingenious in that a cowl is built as part of the twist pattern. The final effect being a more subtle twist with a relaxed fit. If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio. My Knit Block is also available as a PDF download.

Issey Miyake single jersey twist pattern.

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Pattern Puzzle - Twist Overlay

Friday, February 26, 2016

Did you ever think there'd be so many designs using Twist Drape? I was totally captivated with the asymmetric aspect of this design and the layering effects that can be achieved using two different fabrics and my knit block. Like the majority of previous twists you'll definitely need a two-way stretch knit for this to work well. The elastane (Lycra/Spandex) in your knit fabric is the best tool for achieving a snug fit with this method of making twist patterns. If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

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Pattern Puzzle - Asymmetric Cowl Drape

Thursday, November 05, 2015

Elegant and flattering, this is an interesting cut in a knit fabric. By using my Knit Block or your favourite tee shirt patterns, you can self-draft the front pattern piece to drape while leaving the back and sleeve patterns exactly as they are. It's a looser shape than many drape tops and is cut with a more gentle fitting rather than hugging tight to the body. That slightly looser, non-grabby tee shirt is always flattering and much easier to wear.