well-suited blog - fashion design, illustration, pattern making.

My Drape Pattern Making Method

Tuesday, February 06, 2018

The origins of my passion for creative pattern making start way back in 1980 when I first went to fashion college. It was at this time that I was introduced to an amazing pattern making book that just lit up my brain. Natalie Bray's technical diagrams leapt off the page and made immediate sense to me. I could hardly contain my excitement at the potential of pattern making. To this end I believe I was quite the pesky student in our pattern making classes. The student with 20 questions every session, that drove the pattern making teacher crazy. You'll find Natalie's books on all the usual book selling sites and the prices vary dramatically, so do your research. Keep Reading...

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Trouser Block - Fitting Toile

Wednesday, July 12, 2017

So often I'm asked how I make my fitting toile's for Trouser Blocks, so I'd thought I'd put together a short post with some detail. Many of the points are small but essential for a good #FirstFitting. You can access a download of my Trouser Block here. I've also uploaded a worksheet that covers the detail for the first stage of fitting the trouser block. The PDF worksheet includes detail instructions and technical diagrams to take you through every step of the process. Keep Reading...

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Fitting Commercial Patterns - FBA

Saturday, April 09, 2016

Fitting Commercial Patterns is a very popular workshop for home sewers and textile teachers. This week I've been going all-out to improve the workbook materials for this workshop in preparation for some professional development training I'm delivering in Melbourne next week to the Victorian VET textile teachers. I've decided to share a section of that new workbook in this post, covering the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on an existing shirt pattern.

Keep Reading...

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Grade Rules - Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico

Thursday, February 04, 2016

Imogeena has made a special request for grading information for the Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico. This design has turned out to be very popular as a self-draft pattern but you can understand how the simple shape may make it confusing to grade for different sizes. This post has all the grade rules and specific locations (with notes) for growing the pattern. Keep Reading...

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Cut, Hang and Hem before Pleating 101

Tuesday, January 19, 2016

This is the third post in the Permanent Pleating series where we're looking at the pre-pleating preparation for a Sunray Circle Skirt and Mushroom Pleated rectangle. Our first post covered the introduction to the series - Prep for Permanent Pleating 101. And the second post has all the pattern making information for both skirts; Patterns for Pleating Project 101. Keep Reading...

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Patterns for Pleating Project 101

Tuesday, January 12, 2016

In this post I'll cover the detail of drafting the patterns you'll need for this permanent pleating project, then follow with the essential pre-pleating preparation in the next post. Have a look at Prep for Permanent Pleating 101 if you'd like some background to this permanent pleating post series. Keep Reading...

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Prep for Permanent Pleating 101

Saturday, January 09, 2016

I've always had a fascination for what can be achieved with a little heat and some petro-chemical fibres. Permanent (heat-set) Pleating is the use of heat on polyester/nylon fabrics to set a pleat that will survive the rigours of wash and wear without the need of re-pressing. Keep Reading...

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Pattern Fundamentals - Drape Skirt II

Friday, September 25, 2015

There have been a few of this variety of skirt gracing the catwalk for the past couple of years. I have also cut similar for local clients and the beauty of this design is it's simplicity for a first attempt at cutting drape patterns. The drape shape is in fact separate to the front and back patterns and acts as a decorative overlay for the front skirt. Start with my Skirt Block and follow the pattern making instructions in this post. Suggested fabrics: Crepe weaves with a transparent overlay for the front drape or a satin backed crepe where you are able to reveal the satin back in the cowl of the drape. If you are interested in Drape Skirt Patterns you can click through to our dedicated workshop and check out the detail.

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Fittings First - An Integrated Approach to Pattern Making

Wednesday, September 02, 2015

I have made an info-graphic to show you all what I've been up to with the workshop line-up here at the studio. Now I hear you say 'What's that to me? I live on the other side of the world! :( So to elaborate; the teaching materials I intend for the website (e-learning) are derived from the workbooks I make for each of the workshops I run here at the studio. The content and integration of that content becomes even more important when considering its use as online teaching materials. As a first step I've added my garment blocks to the website as PDF downloads.

Keep Reading...

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Pattern Fundamentals - Cowl Twist Jersey

Monday, June 22, 2015

About two years ago, in a Draped Dress Patterns workshop, this jersey style came into being. A combination of Cowl and Twist Drape, it proved to be a fabulous idea for students dealing with their first ever drape pattern. Using my knit block for these early drape patterns is always a plus. There is never any question about... ' what to do with the darts!'. If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.