well-suited blog - fashion design, illustration, pattern making.

Pattern Puzzle - Triple Twist Jersey Dress

Monday, May 07, 2018

Here we have another re-issue of my very early Pattern Puzzle posts. I've up-dated the images and improved the instructions. I'm really enjoyed the regular Saturday morning Pattern Puzzles on my facebook page and hope to return to them sometime soon. Here is the sketch, pattern plan and pattern pieces for the front of the Triple Twist Jersey dress. Please note this style only works with my knit block and two-way stretch jersey fabric.

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Pattern Puzzle - Transparent Tuck Dress

Monday, April 30, 2018

Congrats to Mioara and Gemma solving the Pattern Puzzle in just one comment! I think I am going to have to up my game to give you all a bit more of a challenge. This creative design is just the kind of pattern we make in my Draped Dresses workshop at Studio Faro. Below is recent design development I have decided to use for the Pattern Puzzle this week. The inspiration comes from Comme de Garcon frock I saw in the late nineties. The image has always stayed with me. I so love their work. This post was originally published 17 June 2013 and is one of my earliest Pattern Puzzle posts. In this post I have updated the graphics and improved the pattern making instructions for this release.

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Vintage Inspired Round-Up

Thursday, July 28, 2016

Trawling through my blog post archive I've come to realise that many of my posts have vintage content, and I discover there are at least twenty vintage posts! So this Vintage Inspired Round-Up is to refresh your memory of some of my earlier Pattern Puzzle posts and to share a few points in history where vintage style has influenced my work. Where does it all start?

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Pattern Puzzle - Rectangle Drape Skirt

Saturday, April 23, 2016

For this #PatternPuzzle post you have an elegant Drape Skirt that can be cut from a basic skirt block or any pencil skirt pattern. My Skirt Block is now available here as a PDF download. I've included some interesting seaming that works well with the drape feature that's included in the front left skirt.

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Pattern Puzzle - Issey Miyake Single Twist

Saturday, April 16, 2016

Does anyone remember this little pattern puzzle from last year? It's been a long time waiting in the wings for posting. An innovation on an existing theme, this single twist is ingenious in that a cowl is built as part of the twist pattern. The final effect being a more subtle twist with a relaxed fit. If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio. My Knit Block is also available as a PDF download.

Issey Miyake single jersey twist pattern.

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Pattern Puzzle - Twist Overlay

Friday, February 26, 2016

Did you ever think there'd be so many designs using Twist Drape? I was totally captivated with the asymmetric aspect of this design and the layering effects that can be achieved using two different fabrics and my knit block. Like the majority of previous twists you'll definitely need a two-way stretch knit for this to work well. The elastane (Lycra/Spandex) in your knit fabric is the best tool for achieving a snug fit with this method of making twist patterns. If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

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Pattern Puzzle - Asymmetric Cowl Drape

Thursday, November 05, 2015

Elegant and flattering, this is an interesting cut in a knit fabric. By using my Knit Block or your favourite tee shirt patterns, you can self-draft the front pattern piece to drape while leaving the back and sleeve patterns exactly as they are. It's a looser shape than many drape tops and is cut with a more gentle fitting rather than hugging tight to the body. That slightly looser, non-grabby tee shirt is always flattering and much easier to wear.

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Pattern Puzzle - Squares & Zero Waste

Thursday, August 13, 2015

Welcome all to this somewhat delayed blog post. I am gradually catching up and would like to thank you for your patience. The idea with this puzzle was to test one of those apparently simple pattern shapes you so often find on the net. Every now and then we all come across stuff on the internet that suggests the simplest cuts will make the most flattering garments. Who can say until you have actually made the thing up. :) This pattern is based on multiple squares in a variety of sizes with a little adjustment on the stand.

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Pattern Puzzle - Drape Tube Skirt

Sunday, August 09, 2015

For this week's #PatternPuzzle, my initial idea was to make a slim jersey skirt with a #CowlDrape on the Centre Back (CB) seam. When I started the pattern development I found there was also an opportunity to work some draping magic with the waist shaping (side seam & back dart). What I came up with is a number of options for this skirt pattern development that should suit everyone's taste and style. NB These instructions use my skirt block and are for two-way stretch jersey and light weight ponti only. If you don't fancy making your own pattern, I've just added this PDF pattern to the website for the Drape Tube Skirt in Sizes 6-22.

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Pattern Puzzle - Wrap Drape Tunic

Tuesday, July 21, 2015

This weeks design follows a current trend for large cross-over tucks as seen in a couple of recent #PatternPuzzles. I know that I am really pushing the envelope with this style. To get the drape right in the front and make sure the tucks are holding everything in place will be quite a challenge. This is probably a good opportunity to remind everyone that these puzzles are ideas only, with guidelines for making the pattern. The proof is in the testing and that's a creative and technical journey from a well-fitted block through pattern making knowledge in the desire of beautiful creations. For industry product development, a dress of this complexity will take a minimum of two toiles (more likely 3-4) to get the balance right. And it's not just the cutting but the choice of fabric that is crucial. If the fit on the bust is too tight it will push the drape tucks open and be potentially ugly. If the fabric is too stiff, the front hem drape will stick out in a doll-like fashion. So take a deep breath and be prepared to make at least two toiles, to finesse this pattern, before cutting into your valuable fabric.