well-suited blog - fashion design, illustration, pattern making.

Hip Twist Top - Sewing Instructions

Monday, September 28, 2020

The Hip Twist Sewing Pattern has been a long time in coming, and I thank all of you for your patience. The past few months have been less than usual and I've had my focus diverted on other projects closer to home. Now it is such a pleasure to get back to business and deal with all my wonderful patterns. In this blog post I'll be taking you step-by-step through the sewing process for this twist tee. And a timely reminder that you'll get the best results with this pattern by using two-way stretch knit (four-way stretch in the US) that has elastane content (Lycra, Spandex). I have achieved the best results with rayon, polyester and wool knits with elastane. Some cotton knits may work if they are not too stiff.

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Sewing Instructions for The Patent Blouse

Wednesday, September 18, 2019

Now that this pattern has been released on the website, it's time to put up some sewing instructions. At first the pattern shape appears weird and unusual, as it did for me when I first found this little beauty at the US patent office. The original blog post describes my process - Pattern Puzzle - The Patent Blouse. When cutting your own Patent Blouse, please make sure you use two-way stretch knit for the best results (four-way stretch knit in the US).

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The Patent Blouse Sewing Pattern

Monday, July 08, 2019

This unusual sewing pattern has been featured on my blog for a very long time. As early as December, 2013. Right from the very beginning it's been a favourite. I've made myself at least eight of these tops in a great variety of fabrics: merino/lycra, viscose/elastane, cotton/elastane and rayon/elastane. It's really important to understand that all fabrics for my samples are two-way stretch jersey (four-way in the US) with some elastane content (lycra/spandex). My favourites are the merino/elastane, with a soft, draped handle in both red and black. You can get yourself a copy of this amazing sewing pattern, here on my website: The Patent Blouse Sizes XS-XXL. Keep Reading...

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Morticia Skirt Pattern

Thursday, June 27, 2019

It's been a long time in the making, the Morticia Skirt pattern. Finally it's available as a PDF download in 9 sizes (Sizes 6-22) in the one document download. It's been designed for woven fabric with a minimum of 2cm (¾") garment ease. When you print the A0 pattern, you'll find all sorts of information on the sheet to help you select the right size and lay-up and cut your skirt pattern. There is also a set of sewing instructions. Very soon I'll be adding a post with those sewing instructions, along with photos and more detail. Keep Reading...

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Pattern Puzzle - Three Colour Wrap Dress

Tuesday, January 15, 2019

Originally posted in June 2013, it was quite a challenge for my Facebook fans to solve this Pattern Puzzle. This is the original puzzle, the sketch and pattern plan are pasted below with all the pattern making detail. I have updated the graphics and the instructions in line with more recent pattern puzzles.

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My Fitted Dress Block for Pattern Puzzles

Thursday, August 02, 2018

This has to be my favourite block! It's the start place for so many of the garments you'll find in your wardrobe. It's the base for woven garments that cover the torso - dresses, corsets, shirts & jackets. Keep Reading...

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Pattern Puzzle - Triple Twist Jersey Dress

Monday, May 07, 2018

Here we have another re-issue of my very early Pattern Puzzle posts. I've up-dated the images and improved the instructions. I'm really enjoyed the regular Saturday morning Pattern Puzzles on my facebook page and hope to return to them sometime soon. Here is the sketch, pattern plan and pattern pieces for the front of the Triple Twist Jersey dress. Please note this style only works with my knit block and two-way stretch jersey fabric.

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Pattern Puzzle - Transparent Tuck Dress

Monday, April 30, 2018

Congrats to Mioara and Gemma solving the Pattern Puzzle in just one comment! I think I am going to have to up my game to give you all a bit more of a challenge. This creative design is just the kind of pattern we make in my Draped Dresses workshop at Studio Faro. Below is recent design development I have decided to use for the Pattern Puzzle this week. The inspiration comes from Comme de Garcon frock I saw in the late nineties. The image has always stayed with me. I so love their work. This post was originally published 17 June 2013 and is one of my earliest Pattern Puzzle posts. In this post I have updated the graphics and improved the pattern making instructions for this release.

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My Drape Pattern Making Method

Tuesday, February 06, 2018

The origins of my passion for creative pattern making start way back in 1980 when I first went to fashion college. It was at this time that I was introduced to an amazing pattern making book that just lit up my brain. Natalie Bray's technical diagrams leapt off the page and made immediate sense to me. I could hardly contain my excitement at the potential of pattern making. To this end I believe I was quite the pesky student in our pattern making classes. The student with 20 questions every session, that drove the pattern making teacher crazy. You'll find Natalie's books on all the usual book selling sites and the prices vary dramatically, so do your research. Keep Reading...

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Vintage Inspired Round-Up

Thursday, July 28, 2016

Trawling through my blog post archive I've come to realise that many of my posts have vintage content, and I discover there are at least twenty vintage posts! So this Vintage Inspired Round-Up is to refresh your memory of some of my earlier Pattern Puzzle posts and to share a few points in history where vintage style has influenced my work. Where does it all start?