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THE PATENT BLOUSE - First Sample!

Thursday, October 09, 2014
The Patent Blouse has become a favourite top for me after the first set of samples were very wearable.  Previous post here.  It has become such a favourite that I managed to wear out my first red sample very quickly.  Unfortunately rayon is not made to last and very soon the surface of the knit was a little shabby with pilling.  I have promised myself that the next red patent blouse will be made in merino.Fitting the Patent Blouse.

Following the first sample Teresa made this stripe, button through sample, adding a front opening on the CF seam.  A great idea that works so well with the stripe.  However I think I would need vertical stripes and maybe a little longer for my figure.  That's what happens when the scrap of fabric has an influence on the final sample.  It's a beautiful stripe that I have been saving for just this kind of job.  

Stripe fabric for the patent blouse.

Having worn my first red sample so often, I have decided on some alterations to the pattern to bring it into better shape.  The mayor issue for me was the extra fabric that drapes in the lower back of the top.  And I think a little waist shaping in the back would also improve the garment.

To remove the extra fabric in the back length pin (3.5cm) horizontally across  the back and get a clean line.  Then pin in waist darts (3.5cm) across the diagonal seam, both sides, in the back.

Patent Blouse Fitting Alts

Transferring the alterations to the pattern is set out below.  A dart shapes the hipline of the top, reducing the back waist along the diagonal seam.  The back length is reduced, along the same seam, by folding the pattern, keeping the CB fold on a straight line.  The idea here is to make sure that these alterations have the same effect on the length of the diagonal seam.  In this case the seam length was reduced by  3.5cm between the armhole notch and the Centre Back V seam.

Pattern alterations diagram patent blouse.

Mark the alterations on your pattern and check the the change in the seam length is the same for both parts of the pattern.

Mark in pattern alterations.

Fold out the reduction and re-draw the curves on your pattern.

Alter original patent blouse pattern.

I like to extend the top for the hip band allowance rather than have a separate sew-on band.  Make a clean copy of your pattern onto pattern card and add the front fold-back seam and the extra length that would have been your hip band.  I have added 12cm as I like my tops to be a little longer.

Final Pattern

And voila! the promised red merino Patent Blouse with alterations.

Final Sample

For my next sample I would like to extend the length of the top to cover my seat, almost tunic length.   This would be great with leggins and boots.  I have also wondered how this top might be made into a dress pattern.  Does anyone have any design variations on the Patent Blouse that would make a great dress?  If so I would love to hear from you.  Leave your suggestions and questions in the comments section below.
Enjoy :)

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Comments
Leslie commented on 10-Jan-2015 05:52 AM
This top is lovely and intriguing. I just found your website through a pinterest link, it is fascinating.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 10-Jan-2015 08:18 AM
Hi Leslie, thanks for dropping by. :) I'm pleased you enjoyed this post. Are you thinking of trying it?
Digs commented on 14-Feb-2015 03:15 AM
Hi, I'm thinking of making this top, but am wondering if you'd suggest how to place the grain. Along CF? or across it? I'm tempted towards along CF, as this'll result in better give in the hip, but your two patterned examples suggest that one is along, the other across. Thank you for your work!
Anita - studiofaro commented on 14-Feb-2015 10:00 AM
In most cases I put the straight grain on the CF. This gives me the bigger stretch along the hip line. However with a two-way (four-way in the US) stretch it will work both ways. If I was cutting the stripe one again I would have the stripe parallel with the CF to be more flattering and that would put the grain in the other direction. All very acceptable. :)
Leslie commented on 26-Nov-2016 10:08 AM
I work exclusively with hand-woven cloth, but I am very interested in using the cloth for some of the designs I've seen on your blog. Can we confer?
Anita McAdam commented on 28-Nov-2016 10:50 AM
Hi Leslie, thanks for getting in touch. Yes we can confer. :) Please email me direct: enquiries@studiofaro.com

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for home and personal use only.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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