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The Patent Blouse Sewing Pattern

Monday, July 08, 2019

This unusual sewing pattern has been featured on my blog for a very long time.  As early as December, 2013.  Right from the very beginning it's been a favourite.  I've made myself at least eight of these tops in a great variety of fabrics: merino/lycra, viscose/elastane, cotton/elastane and rayon/elastane.  It's really important to understand that all fabrics for my samples are two-way stretch jersey (four-way in the US) with some elastane content (lycra/spandex).  My favourites are the merino/elastane, with a soft, draped handle in both red and black. You can get yourself a copy of this amazing sewing pattern, here on my website: The Patent Blouse Sizes XS-XXL.

It all started with some research into one-piece patterns, from the early 20th century, located with the US Patent office.  It seems there was a push from clothing manufacturers, to develop easy to construct designs and patterns, to bring down the costs of production.  The sample featured above, is made from a cotton/elastane knit with two-way stretch (four-way stretch in the US).

My first ever sample was in a sporty stripe, rayon jersey, where I took the opportunity to finesse the fitting to the back of the pattern.  You'll find all the detail for these alterations in a sample blog post in my FREE Members Area.

And finally the next sample, in red merino jersey, showing the improvement in the fit of the back of the blouse.

All of these improvements and fittings are included in the digital sewing pattern that's now available on the website, in Sizes XS-XXL (equal to Sizes 6-22 in my Size Chart).  I've made up some lay-plans that help you work out the different grain to use for the large range of sizes.  Both of these are included in the print of The Patent Blouse, along with a Fabric Usage chart.  The example below is for Sizes XS-L, with the cloth folded for cutting, with the straight grain running down the fold of the centre back seam.  You'll need .7 m of two-way stretch knit for Sizes XS-L.

Layplan - Patent Blouse

For sizes XL-XXL, you'll need more fabric as you'll be cutting your pattern on the other grain line.  The patterns for the larger sizes are a little too wide for cutting on folded fabric, at 150cm wide.  Sometimes you can buy knit fabrics at wider widths, but most of the time they come at 150cm wide.  In the example below, I have a single lay of the cloth and it demonstrates that, although you have to buy twice as much cloth, you will get two Patent Blouses out of your fabric.  To cut Sizes XL-XXL, you'll need to buy 1.4m of two-way stretch knit fabric.

Layplan - Patent Blouse

Keep your eye out for my sample making posts in my FREE Member Area.  If you have any questions about this pattern or the sewing process, don't hesitate to use the comments section below. :)  

If you'd like to share your photos of this blouse you can join my Facebook group, or Instagram.  To be sure I see the posts, please use my handle @studiofaro or the hashtag #PatentBlouse.

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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These are the first of my sewing patterns as PDF downloads for you to buy and sew.  The more I sell the more time I have to make new ones.  So if you fancy supporting the work I do here on the well-suited blog, this is your opportunity.  These patterns are based on my size chart listed here on the website.


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Garment blocks are the basic template we use to make fashion patterns.  They are not patterns in themselves as they have no design detail.  My garment blocks also don't have any seam allowances as they are never sewn together once the fit is perfected.  If you look at any of my Pattern Puzzle posts you'll see that I usually start with a block then modify to achieve my new design idea.  These garment blocks are also based on my size chart as required for the mass production of fashion clothing.


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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com


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