24 Jun First Sample – Tucked Tee
If you have a look at this original post you’ll see my thinking when I attempted this Pattern Puzzle. It appears so simple as an idea, but when testing the pattern I found it was like many other apparently ‘simple’ ideas, that is very difficult to achieve.
Let me take you through my process of testing this apparently ‘simple’ idea.
My thinking was that the garment looked like a slightly over-sized tee-shirt with that very significant tuck set diagonally across the body. So that’s how I approached the pattern plan. I’ve used my Women’s Knit Block, one size larger, then extended the shoulder line, dropped the underarm point and loosened the side seam fit.
For my first sample I used a piece of polyester/elastane of medium weight knit that I found at a charity shop. Overall the sample was as expected. The obvious issue is the extra length that tends to grow into diagonal tuck drape (as pinned in the photo below). This will always happen in both woven and knit garments and is something that is easily fixed.
The positioning of the diagonal drape is very important. If the garment is dress length then I think the lower end of diagonal tuck should land just above the hip. If cut in a shorter tunic length then I think the end of the diagonal drape should land a little higher.
I also think the medium weight was a little too much and will be making my next sample in something lighter. I wasn’t that happy with the overall fit so I’ll be trying a slightly closer fit in the next sample.
For the next pattern I did use a slightly smaller knit block to see if that improved the fit of the overall design. I also ended the diagonal drape in a slightly higher position, just below the waistline.
The fabric, also in my stash, was a rayon/elastane knit with exceptionally soft drape. The front pattern needs to be cut R.S.U. (Right Side Up) with consideration to which side you’d like the drape tuck to be placed. The back pattern is the usual Cut 1 to Fold. And the sleeves are Cut 1 Pair.
Before sewing up the tee-shirt shape it’s a good idea to stitch the tuck drape in place through the armhole and side seam area.
Like so many of my patterns I think it’s ok but will need to make a few tweaks to get the shoulder line looking better before I decide whether to work on it for an online sewing pattern.
At the end of all this I have come to the same conclusion as I did in the opening paragraph; Simple ideas are often the hardest patterns to cut and get right.