Vintage Bodice – Full Bust Adjustment

Vintage Bodice – Full Bust Adjustment

To begin, a quick recap of previous posts for the Gil Brandao, Conjunto Pratico.  You can start with the first post, the self-draft instructions for this vintage bodice.  If you think you’d like more detail you can download my detailed worksheet – Vintage Style Pattern Making.  The instructions in the worksheet include information for drafting different sizes, from 6 to 22.  If you’re unable to access the worksheet there is a post where I outline the grade rules to make the original draft in to other sizes – Grade Rules – Gil Brandao Conjunto PraticoTaking the vintage bodice further I have a post with the instructions for adding a skirt to the vintage bodice to make and wrap style dress –Vintage Bodice as Dress – Fist Sample.
Vintage Style Pattern Making

In my experience, just about every home sewer needs to understand several different ways of making a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on a number of different pattern shapes.  Not so long ago I had a request from a fan wanting to know if it was possible to make a FBA for this pattern puzzle, Gil Brandao, Conjunto Pratico.  In response I’ve developed the diagrams below for a FBA adjustment on this self-draft vintage bodice.  I’ll take you step-by-step through the process and give you a few alternatives for the finished garment.
Diagram with the cutting lines to begin the FBA for this vintage bodice.
  • Locate your bust point on the pattern by trying on a toile and marking the exact point.
  • Draw in cutting lines from the bust point to the neckline, armhole and waist line.
 
  • Cut through the lines that connect the neckline to the bust point, through to the waistline.
  • Open up the neckline through to the waist for 1-2cm each depending on how much fabric you need to add for your adjustment.
  • You have increased both the bodice length and width as needed for a fuller bust.
  • Mark in a symmetrical dart, below the bust point, that is as wide as the FBA alteration (1-2cm).
  • The dart arms should finish about 3 cm below the bust point.  These are the sewing lines for the bust dart.
  • Fold the dart closed at the waistline and mark through the outside edge using your tracing wheel.
  • If you find the neckline is still a little loose you can gape dart the neckline and add that extra shaping through to the waist dart.
Like all pattern alterations it needs to be tried and tested in a sample before cutting in your best fabric.  The basic principles described above can be applied to almost any pattern shape to achieve a FBA and the extra length and width needed over the bust.  If you’d like to checkout a couple more posts about FBA’s try these:
Let me know if you have any questions about these alterations in the comments section below.  Always happy to help. 🙂
Anita McAdam
enquiries@studiofaro.com
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