Sewing Pattern Alterations

The beauty of this Folk to Fashion zero-waste pattern is that you can select your fabric width to determine different sizing outcomes in the final garment.  And the length of your available fabric will determine the final length of your garment and sleeve.  This garment is an historic pattern called a Eura, believed to be worn as an undergarment around 500-1,000 AD.

This post is specifically dedicated to working a full bust adjustment (FBA) on my knit block.  This particular pattern alteration is important for anyone with a bra cup size above B & C.  Because we are working with knit, I'd prefer not to include a dart in any of my knit patterns.  If you add a Full Bust Adjustment to a woven pattern you'll usually end up with a side seam dart.  For knit patterns I have a different way of dealing with the extra fabric that results from an FBA and that would usually become a dart.
All details following:

If you'd like to get yourself a classic Tee-shirt pattern, my Boat Neck Tee pattern is not overly tight, with soft shaping on the side seam, a boat neckline and three-quarter sleeves.  For most of us the first pattern alteration, depending on the weather, will be sleeve length alterations.

And now I'm ready to return to this little wonder!  From the original Pattern Puzzle post I've made an initial sample in calico to check the design and fit of this new design. Throughout this post I'll share each stage of the pattern alterations that I hope will end up in a delightful pattern.

As a follow-on from Taking Body Measurements, this tutorial will help everyone understand garment ease, what it's for and how to use it in pattern making.  Garment ease is the minimum amount of fabric we add to our body measurements so that our woven garments are comfortable in wearing.  That is, enough extra fabric to sit comfortably, bend your elbow, reach forward to grip the steering wheel when you drive your car or use the computer, sit down, eat lunch, bend your knees, etc.  When fitting basics blocks for woven fabrics, you'll always include the full ease allowance and when you cut patterns from these blocks you can alter the ease to suit the design and fabric you're cutting.

Fitting Commercial Patterns is a very popular workshop for home sewers and textile teachers.  This week I've been going all-out to improve the workbook materials for this workshop in preparation for some professional development training I'm delivering in Melbourne next week to the Victorian VET textile teachers.  I've decided to share a section of that new workbook in this post, covering the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on an existing shirt pattern.

How many times have you experienced this; fabric pooling at the back waist in your dresses and shirts?  Well, I have the Pattern Fix for that!  Unfortunately, there is little we can do to save the sample, but we can do the pattern alteration to make sure it doesn't happen again.

Imogeena has made a special request for grading information for the Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico.  This design has turned out to be very popular as a self-draft pattern but you can understand how the simple shape may make it confusing to grade for different sizes.  This post has all the grade rules and specific locations (with notes) for growing the pattern.
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