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Pattern Insights - Jersey Twist Patterns

Monday, January 05, 2015
This is the first of a new series of pattern making posts called #PatternInsights, that's me sharing the lightbulb moments of my pattern making career. Not quite as 101 as my #PatternFundamentals and no where near as complex as some of#PatternPuzzles, it's another opportunity to share. :) Now available as a PDF download,detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns using My Knit Block. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.Jersey Twist Patterns

My very first encounter with #TwistDrape was when I decided to turn the more challenging and enjoyable aspects of my industry pattern making into a studio workshop.  Darts to Drape in Flat Pattern Making was the first and total descriptive name for the new workshop that was soon altered to Draped Dress Patterns. 

At the time I already had a number of interesting ideas where some strategic slash and spread technique and interesting dart manipulation produced lots of different kinds of drape.  Some using my knit block and some using our woven skirt and dress blocks.  What I would like to do here is share the very first pattern making exercise we do in our Draped Dress Patterns workshop using the Knit Block or your favourite Tee Shirt Pattern.   Please note, these particular twists only work with Two-way Stretch Jersey (i.e. has some Elastane/Spandex/Lycra content).

The Single & Double Jersey Twist Top 

A Twist 'n Seam Method using a Knit Block or tee-shirt pattern:
  1. Trace out your front, back and sleeve side by side.  Decide the location for the twist - RED CIRCLE.  And add your cutting lines to introduce extra fabric in that location.  Also add a couple of Gape Darts to the neckline to bring it close to the body.
  2. Cut and open the pattern along the cutting lines to introduce extra fabric.  Close the Gape Darts to tighten the neckline.  
      • Add per opening:-  Smaller busts - 3-4cm (1 ¼-1 ").  Larger busts - 5-6cm (2-2 ")
  3. Draw a straight line across the twist area and add minimum 1cm (⅜") to allow for the loss in front length of the top from the twist.  Curve back to neckline and centre front line.  
This is the completed pattern shape before making your final patterns.   Trace a pair of this shape and follow the instructions below for the pattern pieces.  Now is a good time to decide if you are making a Single or Double Twist Top.

Jersey Twist Patterns

For a Double Twist Jersey Top lay the pattern pieces facing each other and joined at the centre front.  You need Cut 1 Only in two-way stretch jersey for the front with the double twist.

If you would like a Single Twist Jersey Top please ensure your fabric is good both sides.  If not, you will need to self-line the front to get the right side fabric showing after the twist (i.e. Cut 1 Pair).  The pattern piece is laid out like the pictures on your playing cards, i.e. the two pattern pieces with centre front together and the body parts of the pattern facing in opposite directions.

Jersey Twist My Knit Block

I have cut and photographed a few examples in fabric that I will share later in the week.   They will show the twist  in action, the order of construction and how you sew the twist seam.  Patterns for the back and sleeve can be as your own preference.  Do let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below.

This also presents an opportunity to pull together the #PatternPuzzles that feature similar pattern making moves for own fans and watchers.  As we have moved over only a small number of our posts to this new blog, some of these links will take you back to our original blog.  Enjoy :)

So many blog posts!

Single Twist Jersey #PatternPuzzles:
7. Twist & Turnback Top - Single twist in bodice.
1. Twist or Cowl Shift - The twist shift is a single twist.

Double Twist Jersey #PatternPuzzles:

Combination Single and Double Twists:
Let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below.  Always happy to help.
Wishing you all a wonderful week.  :)

Addendum:  If you fancy making this pattern puzzle, then try my Women Knit Block as an excellent starting point.  My Blocks - PDF (downloads)

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Coia Roig commented on 26-Feb-2020 05:41 AM
Hello!! Tanks for your answer.
This evening I send a request to be included in your Facebook group.
My nickname is "GerardCoia LlopRoig".

Best regards.
Alenka commented on 22-Sep-2020 07:36 PM
As an inexperienced sewer, it all sounds very easy. Would love to try this out. I am only wondering which cupsizes are considered large according to you. I consider myself as very large, so would 5-6 cm be enough? Could I add cm indefinite with this design untill it fits properly?
Best regards, Alenka
Anita - Studio Faro commented on 23-Sep-2020 10:16 AM
Hi Alenka, thanks for dropping by. With this design, as long as you have two-way stretch jersey (four-way in the US) the 5-6cm would be a good place to start. A lot depends on the weight of the fabric and the amount of extra cloth you add. A medium to heavy weight fabric is sometimes too much bulk for this design. My best advice is start with the 5-6cm and gauge the result for yourself. You can always join my Facebook group (STUDIO FARO MAKERS) where you can privately share a photo and we can chat about next steps. New patterns always need some testing and sampling to get them just right for each person. Let me know how you go with this pattern. :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use my content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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