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Pattern Puzzle - Curved Seam Dress

Monday, November 17, 2014
Once again our weekly #PatternPuzzle is focused on doing wicked things with darts!  The design is a classic in many ways and uses a very flattering diagonal seam.   The drape is sent in opposite directions to encourage the eye to take in the whole garment.Drape Dress Sewing Patterns

The pattern plan starts with my fitted dress block:

  1. Trace a full front dress block for the asymmetric design, and a half back dress block.
  2. Mark in the boat neckline, cap sleeve and side seam alteration for a sleeveless style.
  3. Taper the side seam on the dress from hip to 3-4cm at the hem.
  4. Draw in the 'S' shaped curve seam from the left side armhole to the right side high hip.
  5. Draw in the radiating lines for the drape tucks from left bust to right shoulder and right high hip.to lower left hem.
  6. Shape the centre back seam at waist by 1-1.5cm.
  7. Add a walking vent to the centre back seam.
Pattern Plan for the Curved Seam Dress
Starting with the bodice, trace each of the sections as defined by the drape lines.  Fold out all of the darts in each of these sections.  Hold the outside edges of the dress together as you open each drape line for an equal amount of fabric.  Fold the tucks in your pattern paper to trace the outside line and finish to outside edge of the tucks.

Pattern Development Drape Dress

In the pattern pieces below I have the front dress cut on the bias grain and the back dress cut on the straight grain.  It is possible that the straight grain of the back may stabilise the front dress.  Much will depend on your fabric choice.  It is also very acceptable to cut the whole dress on the bias.

Final Sewing Patterns.
Let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below.  Very happy to help out iif you decide to cut any of our #PatternPuzzles.  
 Enjoy :)

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Jane commented on 06-Jan-2015 05:03 AM
Thank you for this post, I have just posted my attempts to make up this dress: http://janessewandtell.wordpress.com/2015/01/05/pattern-puzzle/

I had a couple of questions about some of the alterations you made. Was the side seam alteration put in to stop the arm hole from gaping? I am assuming it plays a similar role to a gape dart or have I got that wrong. Also can you tell me why you removed a small amount from the centre back seam? The waist line on my dress is a little loose but I didn't do this alteration so removing a small section might help.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 06-Jan-2015 11:58 AM
Hi Jane, thanks for sharing your work and using our pattern making instructions. And btw excellent work with the toiles. :) You are absolutely correct about the alteration to the side seam. It is to stop the underarm gaping with out the sleeve. Please note I have also dropped the underarm point to make the armhole more comfortable (1-1.5cm/3/8-⅝"). The shaping on the back seam will help improve the shape of this dress at the waist. It is also where I like to put the zip. I agree with your idea of lifting the curve a little higher on the hip and closer to the waist. Is it possible to see the back of the dress? I think there might be something going on there I would like to look at. Feel free to post here or Facebook or email me direct. :) enquiries@studiofaro.com I am going to post this exact comment on your blog because I am not so sure you will get notified from here? It's all new and not quite working how I would like.
Preethi commented on 03-Jul-2015 08:50 PM
Hi Anita, I'm learning pattern making and would like to know how you treated the waist and shoulder darts in front please? Were they manipulated in any way? Couldn't make out.
Anonymous commented on 04-Jul-2015 10:16 AM
Hi Preethi, thanks for dropping by the blog. If you look at the Pattern Development diagram you see the image on the right is the bodice with the drape lines cut open and the darts folded away. Extra drape has been added to each of the cuts to make the tucks a similar size in the final design.

If you draw up your Pattern Plan, then cut the drape lines and fold the darts after cutting, you will get the exact effect. :) Let me know if you have any questions.

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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