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Pattern Puzzle - Drape Shift

Monday, December 16, 2013
Solved with lightening speed by Alison Calderwood, Julie Eilber and RedPointTailor, last Saturdays #PatternPuzzle turns out to be a fab summer shift.  The image below has the puzzle shape right way up with some notations to help make sense of the thing.   Some of you may remember the Cowl Tee with Drape and Draped Tee from way back that feature the same kind of drape seam as this weeks puzzle. Design and pattern for the drape shift.
 So the first question:  'Do we try to make this pattern from a knit or woven block?'   
The sketch below does suggest a light weight drapey fabric and for my first attempt I would use a one-way stretch knit fabric.  Probably a Cotton/Rayon blend so we have the cotton for breathability and comfort, and the rayon for drape.  If all works out well you might try the slightly more complex pattern making required to cut this style from a woven. 
Drape Shift Production Sketch
 For my first development I have used my close fitting knit block and dropped the side seams down to dress length.  The detail in the Pattern Plan below includes: 
  1.  relaxing off the block fit to allow for a one-way stretch knit and looser fit in this shift. 
  2.  dropping the underarm point by about 1.5cm. adding a 'V' neck front and back. 
  3.  planning gape darts in the front neckline to tighten the shape of the 'V', to hold it close to the body. 
  4.  placement of the drape seam working from the CF toward the right hip. 
  5.  extra shaping on the CB seam to flatter the figure. 
Pattern Plan Drape Shift
 The diagram below outlines the original shape of the knit block used and shows exactly where the extra fabric for the drape is placed.   It also illustrates the move that lifts the front drape seam line so as to maintain the drape seam in it's original place and length.  Please note that the hemline needs a clean curve to enable a quality hem finish.  To finish the neckline and the armhole I would probably use a 6mm (1/4") bind that could be finished outside (showing) or inside (stitch only shows).
Final Patterns for Drape Shift
If you have your own knit block at home, give this a try and let me know how you go.  Happy to answer any of your questions as you work through your pattern and first toile.  Feel free to email me direct or leave your comments on this post.   Enjoy :) 


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Marsha commented on 03-Mar-2017 01:26 AM
I would pay someone to draft this pattern for me for knits!
Anita - studiofaro commented on 03-Mar-2017 03:26 PM
HI Marsha, thanks for dropping by.

This pattern will be available online very soon. And yes it's for knits. So make sure you are subscribed to the website so you're the first to hear. :)
Anonymous commented on 09-Nov-2017 05:04 PM
This is what I ve been looking for... I will give it a try a see how it goes... Thanks alot.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 13-Nov-2017 01:36 PM
Hi Emmy. My pleasure, and be sure to ask any questions as you go along. :)
Deborah commented on 07-Nov-2018 11:00 PM
Anita - any chance you will be adding this pattern to the downloads?
Anita - Studiofaro commented on 12-Nov-2018 05:25 PM
Hi Deborah, thanks for dropping by. I hope to add this pattern to the sewing patterns page sometime next year. I wasn't happy with the first sample, so it still needs a little work before it's ready for grading, etc. Thanks for your interest. It always helps to motivate me. :)
Anwar commented on 11-Jan-2019 05:32 PM
Good day , I would like to have this pattern, may I know how ? Regards Anwar
Anita - Studiofaro commented on 11-Jan-2019 05:59 PM
Hi Anwar, thanks for dropping by. :) This pattern may be available sometime soon, I'm working on the samples now. In the meantime, you can try to cut this pattern for yourself using the instructions above.
Serena commented on 19-Jul-2019 03:07 AM
hi but should this scheme be cut twice? One for the front and one the back? I cannot read it about it. thanks
Anita - Studiofaro commented on 19-Jul-2019 09:26 AM
Hi Serena, thanks for dropping by. This is a one-piece pattern that is cut once only. The front and back dress are included in the one pattern piece. Let me know if that's clear or if you have any questions.
Anonymous commented on 28-Jul-2019 12:20 AM
Hi can this dress be made into a floor length dress using bon bon fabric (a type of stretch fabric)
Anita - Studiofaro commented on 28-Jul-2019 03:51 PM
Hi Anon, thanks for dropping by. To make this design as a full-length dress it might need some re-designing, especially in the hem area. However, I do think it is possible.
Miranda McDougall commented on 24-May-2020 10:50 AM
Very interested in the pattern please a paper one as I have not progressed to self printing and sticking A4 sheets together. Many thanks
Anita - Studio Faro commented on 24-May-2020 03:37 PM
HI Miranda, thanks for dropping by. I decided a long time ago to only do digital patterns for printing at home and at your copy shop. Maybe when this one is ready we can work something out for you. I notice you're in the UK so maybe I can make an exception and post you a printed version. ;)
Onyx commented on 29-Sep-2020 07:13 PM
Hi, i have made a test version of this, and it makes no sense... is there a step missing? Or is it sewn in a special way? All i have is a shift dress with a massive gaping front that becomes nothing like the images, no matter how i fold it. And the back is not draped at all. I copied the pattern exactly... Please help. Very confused.
Anita - Studio Faro commented on 30-Sep-2020 09:54 AM
Hi Onyx, thanks for dropping by. We had a similar problem with our first samples of this design. With brand new design ideas it often takes a few attempts to get the look you are after. And we worked through it in my Facebook group (STUDIO FARO MAKERS). If you're able to come and join the group you will see the solution. We shifted the emphasis for the drape to make a much better version. It is a private group, so once you are a member I'll guide you to the specific posts and solutions. See you soon. Anita
Rajni Soni commented on 13-Oct-2020 01:17 AM
Can i make the neck round? Will it affect the drapes?
Anita - Studio Faro commented on 16-Oct-2020 02:32 PM
Hi Rajni, thanks for dropping by. Changing the neck will not change the drape. However this design is not entirely successful with the instructions above. I have reworked the pattern making details and released them in my Facebook group - STUDIO FARO MAKERS.

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Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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