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Pattern Puzzle - Layered Shirt

Monday, April 13, 2015
This weeks puzzle is very much a summer weight shirt that I imagine in a cotton voile or organdie.  The semi-transparent fabric is used in many layers (2-3) to create drape and subtle colour variation in the layering.  The front opening of the shirt is a concealed, button front hidden under the front drape.Layered Shirt
For this design I have started with my women's fitted block and marked in all the planning lines for the multiple layers in the shirt. 
  1. Loosen off the fit in this block by adding 1cm to front and back chest side seam  and 1.5-2cm each side of the hip and by softening the shape on the side seam.  Drop the underarm point by min. 1cm.
  2. There is a forward shoulder line that becomes part of the back yoke.  
  3. The front opening will be a concealed button opening on a placket sewn into the centre front.  
  4. The major drape in the front shirt meets the edge of this front opening to further conceal.  This drape is very deep - approx. 10-12cm.
  5. Mark in the shaped front hemline of the front overlayer and the left side layer that finishes just below the waist.
  6. Mark in the back yoke line and the overlayer very near the waistline and connecting well with the front layers.  This layer has a large inverted pleat on the centre back line.
  7. Mark in some vertical cut lines in the back for the addition of fullness in the hem.

Layered Shirt
The first stage of the pattern development is to turn my fitted block into a loose fit shape by sending the bust darts through to the hem and separating the major patten pieces, i.e. front shirt, back yoke and back shirt.  Be sure to copy the design lines through to this stage of the patten development.  Clean up (re-curve) the hem line in all layers especially the front.
Layered Shirt sewing Pattern
Trace off all the pattern pieces, opening out the front and back patterns for tucks and drape.  I have suggested a light semi-tranparent fabric for this design and would love to see a mix of fabrics between the under and overlayers to make this an even more interesting style.  All the pieces for the final pattern are featured below with cutting instructions.
Layered Shirt Pattern Making

Let me know if you have any questions about this pattern in the comments section below.  Enjoy :)

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Vicki commented on 13-Apr-2015 07:15 AM
This is really cool. Would look great with long sleeve T underneath too.
Anonymous commented on 13-Apr-2015 03:13 PM
Thanks Vicki, I think a light, super fine wool would make an amazing tunic for colder weather. :)
Leigh commented on 14-Apr-2015 04:07 AM
The finish garment drawing seems to have a waist shaping, but I dont see what does it in the pattern pieces. What is giving the blouson shape?
Anonymous commented on 14-Apr-2015 10:03 AM
Hi Leigh, thanks for dropping by the blog. In the drawing I have gently shaped the blouse, armhole to bust area, but not into the waist. Sorry if it looks misleading. I think I could of worked a little fullness into that back hem.

So much depends on the block you start with and your interpretation of the idea. It would be totally fine to use much of the darting (from the fitted block) in the under layer (and have a more shapely result) and still have the over layer loose. :)
Gail Le Bransky commented on 16-Apr-2015 04:25 PM
Anita - you wonderchild! This vest pattern is amazing. Sorry I haven't been stopping by your blog more often.
Anonymous commented on 18-Apr-2015 08:48 AM
Hi Gail, lovely to hear from you again. Hope all is well with you and yours and I'm sure we will be able to catch up soon. :)
Anonymous commented on 04-Jun-2015 11:31 PM
Интересно шить из двух тканей .
Anonymous commented on 06-Jun-2015 09:35 AM
Yes I agree anonymous. Two fabrics in this design would be great. :) Да, я согласен неизвестным. Два ткани в этой конструкции было бы здорово. :)
Noëlle Adam commented on 16-Aug-2015 09:49 PM
I love your patterns. I am an amateur seamstress, not very advanced, but I would like to learn to make them. All ! Or almost. Too bad following a course with you is impossible (I am in France) but did you ever consider making a book ? Thanks
Anita commented on 19-Aug-2015 01:45 PM
Hi Noelle, thanks for the compliments and I'm thrilled you like the blog. The idea of a book is ever-present; what with the content on the blog and fab reaction I get to certain designs. Time of course is always the issue. I'm currently upgrading my desktop publishing skills and hope to feel confident enough to make a small e-book sometime later this year. Fingers crossed and always hopeful! ;)
Amy commented on 19-Apr-2019 01:41 PM
Im just trying to imagine the construction, how to use the underlay to face the overlay around the arms but i think i can't picture it. Or do you need to draft armhole facing too?
Anita - Studio Faro commented on 19-Apr-2019 02:45 PM
Hi Amy, thanks for dropping by. Both front and back have two layers. So I would use these layers to finish the armhole. But like most new ideas it will be a lot easier to work it out as you make the garment. By the way the back yoke would also need to be double so you can use it to finish the top part of the armhole. I don't think you'll need an armhole facing. I would love to see your sample when you make it. :)

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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