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Pattern Puzzle - The Morticia Skirt

Monday, August 18, 2014

Saturday's #PatternPuzzle had a large number of pattern pieces, all used to make five different skirt patterns, that all make the same style of skirt - The Morticia Skirt.  Many of the drafting methods used in these patterns are self-drafted with full instructions (no block required).  If you don't fancy drafting this skirt pattern I've just added the eight panel Morticia Skirt Pattern to the website. :)The Morticia Skirt

Does anyone out there remember Morticia Addams?  And do you remember the slinky black dresses she wore?  Well they are most definitely the shape of the moment when you look at the red carpet and many fashion ranges.

Variations on a Trend
The five designs selected for our #PatternPuzzle are easily drafted and sewn together and would make a fab first project for new pattern makers and students of fashion.
Skirt Sewing Patterns

Using three pattern making methods:

One of my favourite ways of producing my very own Morticia Addams style skirt is a self-draft method for panel skirts.   Self-Drafted Panel Skirts are very simple to draft and provide a flexible solution to producing your own skirt patterns.  Three of the skirts featured above are achieved by this method (green, blue, pink).  The limitation in the method is the skirt must have no less than 8 panels in total.  Any less and the style will not fit well.

Direct Draft Panel Skirt

For two of the skirt styles (pink, purple) you will need a Self-Drafted Half Circle Skirt pattern.  Note the lift (12cm) in the CF hem for the Hi-Lo half circle in the pink skirt.

Circle Skirt Sewing Patterns

And finally two of the skirt styles (pink, beige) use my Basic Skirt Block. The side seams are tapered from the hip to 10cm above the knee.  Remove the front dart and transfer the shape to the side seam.  The circumference at the seam is equal to the half-circle skirt above.

Draft Morticia skirt

The pattern plan below is for the four gored bias cut Morticia Skirt.  Taper the side seams and CB seam to 10cm above the knee.  Then flare out to the full length hem.  Total flare on each gore is 50 cm, making the hem 200cm in total.  Use a fine, closely woven fabric to remain stable on the bias grain.

Bias cut skirt patten

The pattern making methods featured above are used time and time again in skirt styles.  They are a great place to start for beginner pattern makers.  Leave a comment below if you have any questions about this post.

Enjoy :)

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Elizabeth commented on 26-Jun-2016 04:21 PM
Could you use a knit instead of a bais cut woven fabric for the 4 gored skirt? Perhaps you would reduce the ease in this case.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 27-Jun-2016 04:14 PM
Hi Elizabeth, thanks for dropping by. Yes you can use knit fabric for these styles. The calculation on the hip will be different to reflect he fabric. Most likely you will use a hip measurement with negative ease. That means smaller than your actual hip measurement. Let me know if you have any questions. :)
Anonymous commented on 26-Jul-2016 02:50 PM
Would this be considered an advanced project for a beginner sewer? It's noted as a good project for a beginner pattern maker, but I've only made basic skirts without zippers (elastic waist). I dream if long panel skirts in SWFL in cotyon or rayon ...flowey with every step. I have one I found in a thrift store that is lightly lined in shades of green and blue hues hemmed in coordinating bright green cotton (crocheted)lace. I sometimes feel like taking it apart to try to figure out the pattern, but yours looks just perfect. It's two sizes larger on me, so slips down to my hips and sooo comfortable. It also has a gross - grain ribbon sewn inside the waist. I'd have to practice the invisible zipper. I want one in a charcoal grey chambray or light denim too.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 26-Jul-2016 05:01 PM
Hi Anon, I think this is good for beginner pattern making. Perhaps first to practice the invisible zipper then try one of these skirts. Let me know if you have any questions when you make the pattern. :)
Anonymous commented on 10-Nov-2017 10:51 PM
Hallo my dear, I thought on a panel 8 skirt the panels go to the extreme bottom but with this draft I'm actually confused and the other thing do I have to use the single draft to trace out all the panels I need clarifications please. Thank you
Anita - Studiofaro commented on 13-Nov-2017 01:30 PM
Hi Shadree, thanks for getting in touch. This skirt has one pattern shape only that is then cut eight times. And please use the curved line for the hem in the eight panel skirt.

I do hope I have answered your question. Please feel free to ask any questions. :)
Anonymous commented on 22-Sep-2018 09:47 AM
What do you measure for the half circle skirt for the lower part of the skirt? Or how does one measure for the half circle skirt that starts above the knee, thanks.
Anita - StudioFaro commented on 22-Sep-2018 11:46 AM
Hi Helen, If you take a measurement around the area of the beginning of the half circle skirt, probably mid-thigh, then use that measurement when calculating for your half circle draft. The 88cm on the diagram instructions is the circumference of my mid-thigh measurement and I'm AusSize12. Hope this helps. :) Plese feel free to ask more questions if I've not been clear.
Anonymous commented on 31-Oct-2018 03:12 AM
Hello, is this suitable for stretch fabrics? I’m making a dance costume and it needs to be in 4 way stretch without a zipper. Thank you for you time with me
Anita - Studiofaro commented on 31-Oct-2018 01:04 PM
Yes, this design is totally suitable for stretch fabrics. :) If you use a four-way stretch then be sure to draft the skirt with negative ease on the hip and waist measurement. By that I mean to draft it smaller than the body measurements by about 6-10cm depending on the amount elastane in your fabric. And yes, you can do this without a zip it using four-way stretch fabric. Let me know fi you have any questions as you get into the drafting and making. :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use my content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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