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Pattern Puzzle - The Wrap Drape Dress

Monday, April 07, 2014

This weeks #PatternPuzzle was a tough one!  When you look at the weird pattern shape we posted on Saturday, you are looking at the most complex pattern piece in the style.  In this weeks puzzle, in addition to the side seam drape, it's all about understanding the construction of the front wrap and how that relates to the CF seam.  It is a mock wrap in that it is secured at the side seams to create a more reliable shape.Drape Dress Sewing patterns

The side seam drape is popular in both knit and woven fabrics. There are endless variations on this style in fashion ranges from the top to the bottom of the market and it has also been a popular theme in some of our puzzles.

Jersey Ruche Dress

Cross Drape Tee

Three Colour Wrap Dress

Draped Wrap Dress

Variation Drape Dress Designs

Once you turn the weird pattern shape the right way up, it does make a bit more sense.  The armhole is partially visible on the top left-hand side.  The peaks on the right would represent large drape tucks going into the side seam.  And the lower left shape is the dipped hem of the front wrap of the dress.

Pattern Puzzle Blog Posts

The pattern plan below is based on my close fitting, two-way stretch knit block.  It includes a three quarter sleeve with raglan styling and a CB seam to improve the fitting of the dress.  The radiating lines in the front dress are where the extra fabric will be added to create the side seam drape.

Plan your pattern making.

The diagram below will help when you are tracing and separating your pattern pieces.  The pencil sketch included indicates the partially hidden CF seam and the waistline on the left side under-wrap.  The colour coding is used to show both sides of the front dress and how much the wrap crosses over.

Colour code pattens.

Once you identify the parts involved in the Left Front Dress it may be a good idea to number the sections you are about to expand so you can keep track of them in the process.  How much fabric you add in each tuck will depend on the weight of your fabric.  Lighter fabrics will require more fabric to be  added to the tuck to give it a strong, substantial look (10-14cm total tuck).  Medium to heavy weight fabrics will need less (6-10cm total tuck).  Please note it is important to keep the CF seam clear of the tucks between sections 1 and 2.

Tucked Drape Dress Patterns

The final pattern pieces include the two front pattern pieces, one back and one sleeve pattern piece.  You may want to add some lightweight elastic to the waistline edge of the left side dress to prevent too much stretching in the waist.  The only pattern that you will need to add to this style is a binding pattern for the neckline finish.  Placement of the grain on the left front dress is determined by using the bias of the fabric in the direction of the drape.

Wrap Drape Dress.

I love to hear from you so please ask your questions in the comments section below.  Enjoy :)

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Anonymous commented on 22-Sep-2016 11:08 AM
Love this dress and would love to make it. Is the pattern available for download? I have searched everywhere for it but can only find the drawings and instructions.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 22-Sep-2016 04:17 PM
Hi Jan, thanks for dropping by. My blog posts are mostly about teaching pattern making. I'm making some of the ideas into patterns to sell online but that's taking longer than I imagined. If you're subscribed to the website you'll be the first to hear when the patterns are released. You can subscribe on the contacts page. :)
Anonymous commented on 27-Sep-2016 04:54 PM
Thanks for letting me know Anita. I'll subscribe and look forward to being able to buy your awesome patterns at some stage soon :-)
Vivian Odili commented on 25-Jan-2017 04:15 PM
Hello Anita,
I must say that you have been a source of inspiration to me. I have followed your blog for some time now and its been mind blowing. Keep up the good work.
Please i looked at this pattern and cant figure out how the neck line and upper bodice part of the right and left front dress meets
and will be sewn.i dont see them overlapping.
Corry commented on 29-Jan-2017 07:19 AM
Hi Anita,
I have been looking to see if you have notes out to make the asymmetric cowl.
Have made the pattern, but cannot see how to marry the top together. Would love to make it.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 30-Jan-2017 01:35 PM
Hi Vivian, thanks for dropping by. :) The dress bodice is joined on the centre front seam. Then the extension on the left side connects to the right side seam to hold it all in place. I would probably add elastic to the waist line to stabilise. I do hope this answers your questions. If not pls feel free to ask another.
Anita - studiofaro commented on 30-Jan-2017 01:39 PM
Hi Corry, thanks for getting in touch. :) Have you found the dedicated post? It's here: http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited/pattern-puzzle-asymmetric-cowl-drape The second last diagram has some making information. Let me know if it's enough info or send more questions. :)
Yvette commented on 11-Dec-2017 06:43 PM
Everything is clear but I still have a concern how to get a close fitting 2 way strecth block because I just have a normal dress block the one with darts. Please help. Thank you.
Anita - Studio Faro commented on 12-Dec-2017 10:42 AM
Hi Yvette, thanks for getting in touch. I have a knit block for sale on the website. Not too much money. It is the perfect block for these deigns. http://www.studiofaro.com/my-blocks-pdf A dress block with darts is usually for woven fabrics and won't work for these ideas. Let me know if you have any questions. :)
Anonymous commented on 14-Apr-2018 04:11 AM
Loved it. I tried it but somehow not possible for me.
Can you pls make video showing how to draft and sew it. Thanks
Anonymous commented on 14-Apr-2018 11:15 AM
Hi Anon, thanks for dropping by. :) Unfortunately, I don't have the resources to make videos for every pattern puzzle but there is a sample making post that may help you here: http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited/the-wrap-drape-dress-sampled
linda commented on 09-Jan-2019 11:29 PM
nice pattern .satin or Chifforn is ok to use
Anita - Studiofaro commented on 10-Jan-2019 08:38 AM
Hi Linda, thanks for dropping by. :) This design is for knit or stretch fabrics, not woven. It is possible to make it work with woven fabric, but you will need a different dress block to start and a slightly different set of instructions.

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use my content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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