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Pattern Puzzle - Three Colour Wrap Dress

Tuesday, January 15, 2019
Originally  posted in June 2013, it was quite a challenge for my Facebook fans to solve this Pattern Puzzle.  This is the original puzzle, the sketch and pattern plan are pasted below with all the pattern making detail.  I have updated the graphics and the instructions in line with more recent pattern puzzles.The Original Pattern Puzzle

The original design was scanned from my Visual Diary (below) and turned into a production sketch ready for the pattern making process.  The dress is sketched up in three blocked colours of Navy, Red and Yellow.   Working through the production sketch will always help you finalise all the design details, including how you might get into the dress. ;)  In working the design idea through to the back of the dress, I've continued the waist detail around at an angle, to ensure design continuity for the entire dress.

3 Colour Wrap Dress

 The pattern development below is based on my fitted dress block available here (Womens Fitted Dress Block) for you to download. :)  In the Pattern Plan I have decided that the red diagonal panel at the waist, with the drape should be in one piece (no side seam) so the tucks can be secured softy at the side seam, as in the original sketch. 

Three Colour Wrap Dress

The original dress design is asymmetric in nature, so you'll need to trace out a full front and back dress block to work all the design detail effectively.  The main features of the Pattern Plan are:
  1. A boat neckline that starts at the mid-shoulder point.
  2. An extended cap sleeve that just covers the shoulder.  In this diagram I have extended the shoulder line by 4-5cm (1⅝"-2"), and shaped it slightly to follow the line of the shoulder joint.
  3. Then work on the main design feature at the waist, starting at the back, right underarm and working through to the front waistline.  
  4. Mark in drape lines where you would like the soft waist tucks at the waist to be located.
  5. Draw in the front bodice panel lines, equally either side of the centre front line.
  6. Continue the front right panel line through to the front, right hip level at an angle.
  7. For the length of the dress I've decided to add 5cm (2") beyond the knee level.
  8. Taper the side seams of the front and back dress (2.5cm or 1" each  side) at the hemline level.  Draw a line from zero at the hip level, through to the tapered position at the hemline.
  9. Draw in the left side panel seam from the waist through to the hemline.
  10. Then mark in the drape lines for the tucks in the front dress, from the waist feature through to the hemline.
  11. In this design I've decided to use a centre back seam for the zipper.  To compensate for tapering the side seams, I will add a centre back vent at the hemline for ease of walking.

Colour Coded Pattern Plan

In the diagram above, I've colour coded each of the parts of the pattern to make it clear where the seams are and how this garment comes together.  Each of the coloured areas is a separate pattern piece, with the exception of the draped waist detail.  

Drape Dress - Three Colours

Where you have bust and waist darts, fold them out into the seam detail so you retain all the original fit of the dress block.  The draped waist detail uses both the darts and some extra fabric to create the soft tucked drape at the left side.  And the front skirt area is also opened up to include extra fabric for the two soft tucks of drape that come out of the detail.

Three Colour Wrap Dress

This is how the fabric (pattern) pieces would look cut out in the three different colours. Do be aware that the grain will change on each pattern piece according to how they need to behave.  Let me know if you have any questions about this design and pattern making instructions please feel free to leave a comment below.

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Angela commented on 16-Jan-2019 02:04 PM
This is beautiful! What is the recommended fabric, woven or stretch, one or two directional stretch?

Thank you!
Anita - Studiofaro commented on 16-Jan-2019 02:27 PM
Hi Angela, thanks for the compliment. I'd use a woven, fine weave and light in weight. It could be linen, wool, wool blend or polyester blend according to taste, weather, and budget. Let me know if you have any questions. Always happy to help with the process. :)
Carolyn Cummings commented on 07-Nov-2019 10:38 PM
Hi, I absolutely love this dress pattern. Is it possible for me to purchase this pattern from you? I would love to make it. Thx.
Anita - Studio Faro commented on 13-Nov-2019 01:59 PM
Hi Carolyn, thanks for dropping by. This design and pattern making instructions are concept only and not yet been tested. So sorry, no there is no pattern for sale. Maybe one day i'll get the chance to put all my designs online as patterns. Thanks for your patience. :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use my content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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