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Pattern Puzzle - Transparent Bomber Jacket

Monday, March 02, 2015

Inspired by a delicate sketch in my visual diary from many years ago, the Transparent Bomber jacket is a summer season take on a recent winter trend for classic bomber jackets.  This design will rely on a lightweight transparent fabric that will gather well with the elastic bands and still hold a soft, full shape.Bomber Jacket Pattern

The block I have used for this pattern in my kimono block for woven fabric, working well outside the block fit to achieve the fullness required in this style.  You can make your own Kimono Block using my garment blocks.  To begin your styling:

  1. Mark the new necklines 1-2cm from the original block neckline.
  2. Mark in your jacket length plus band width on the front and back block.
  3. Extend your side seams by 4-5 cm then connect the side seam back to the under arm area.
  4. Draw in your raglan seams, connected to the gusset line, and extended to meet the new side seams.
  5. Mark in your sleeve length along the overarm seam then extend your sleeve width by 3-4cm.
  6. Connect your sleeve opening back to the new underarm point.
  7. Mark in front and back bodice panel seams.  Add a pocket bag to the front panel seam.
  8. Mark in cut lines through each panel piece and sleeve to allow the neckline to open up and provide the extra fabric for the elastic to gather.
  9. Build the gusset allowance need by the bodice and sleeve in the raglan seam.  In this loose style a 2cm gusset is more than enough.
To draft the hood take two measurements around your head:
  1. The first measurement is for the hood opening.  In this case the opening is loose and generous.
  2. Then measure around the back of the head for the depth of the hood.
  3. Use these measurements to build a rectangle using half of each measurement.  That is half hood opening by half hood depth.
  4. Draw a curve in the top right corner for the shaping over the back of the head.  Hoods will need some refinement in the first toile fitting to get the shape to sit well.  The dart like shape in the back hood is sometimes used to remove excess fabric and smooth the hood curve over the head.
  5. The lower edge of the hood will need to equal the new expanded neckline from your pattern development.
  6. To increase the neck edge of the hood open up the front and back lines to equal the new neckline on the jacket.

Pattern Plan for bomber jacket

For the pattern development:

  1. Open up the front and back kimono bodice and sleeve to include the extra fabric for the neckline gather.  
  2. Open up the lower edge of the hood so it matches the new neckline measurement.
  3. Remember to include the gusset allowance in the underarm for lift.

Cut your won bomber jacket sewing pattern.

For the final pattern pieces:

  1. Separate the sleeve from the front and back bodice and join as one pattern.
  2. Trace the separate panels for the front and back bodice. Trace the pocket pattern piece.
  3. Trace a neckline facing to hold the elastic and a facing for the opening of the hood.
  4. Trace full pattern pieces for the sleeve cuff and hip band.
  5. Your choice of seam allowances will depend on fabric and finish.  As a transparent garment the seams on the inside of the garment have to be as good as the outside.  French seams, bound seams or flat felled seams will hide the raw edge of the fabric without having to use an overlocker.

Final patterns bomber jacket

So much in the success of the style will depend on a good balance between the fabric choice, the width of the elastic and the amount of volume included in the pattern making process.  For lightweight fabrics try to use the lightest possible zip you can get your hands on. 

I hope you enjoy the development of this new idea.  Let me know if you are thinking of using our instructions and remember new ideas often require more of our time to perfect.  Always happy to help so please feel free to ask questions in the comments section below.  Enjoy :)

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Tammy commented on 08-Mar-2015 02:28 AM
What an inspiring blog! Some day I hope to follow through by making my own slopers, but in the meantime, I will subscribe to your blog and be excited about your generous sharing and future possibilities.
Anonymous commented on 08-Mar-2015 04:49 PM
Thanks Tammy, happy to share the thing I love. :) May be able to help you out with that sloper very soon. Keep your eye on the site.

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use my content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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