Zuzana Grimm had her ahha moment on Saturday afternoon and solved this #PatternPuzzle. Julie and Vicki gave her a good start in the morning with some great detail. The weird pattern shape is a one piece pattern for a ruched jersey skirt with waterfall drape.
Although I'm using the basic skirt block for woven fabric, I'll select a block two sizes smaller than usual so I can cut the pattern in a two-way stretch jersey. That would give me a fit with negative ease of 6cm for this style.
- There will be no opening (zip) as such in the skirt as I hoping to be able to pull it over the hips. The waistband will be elastic, enclosed in main fabric.
- If you'd like to draft your own skirt block we have pattern making instructions for sale on the website or you can buy my Womens Skirt Block, all sizes, on the website.
- The first thing is to mark in the only seam in this style over the right thigh in the front skirt. Mark notches for the limit of the ruching (waist to hip area) and length of the waterfall (knee length).
Making your skirt pattern plan:
- Trace the front right panel and add it to the right side of the back skirt.
- Taper the side seams by minimum 4cm each seam.
- Mark in the cut lines for the drape from the darts and side seam toward the right side of the pattern. This is where all the dart and waist shaping will end up as ruching (gathers).
- Cut along these lines, then close all darts and side seam shaping.
- Lift the waterfall drape line to a 90 degree angle to the seam and curve back to the front hemline.
- Draw a clean curve through the front right ruching seam, from waist to hipline.
- Add curves to the corner created by the waterfall to achieve a smooth drape over the right thigh.
- Consider the position of your grain line relative to the ruched drape in your skirt. Leaving the grain in its usual place, in the centre of the back skirt, means the ruching will be on the bias grain.
- The final pattern is to be cut right side up (R.S.U.).
- There is also a folded waistband to encase your elastic for the waist.
It's possible for this pattern to turn out too wide for your cloth depending on the size skirt you are making. If that happens you may be able to shorten the top line of the waterfall drape or move the grain line to fit better on the cloth.
I'd love to hear from you if you're making any of my pattern puzzles. Remember that you can buy my Womens Skirt Block or draft your own skirt block with our pattern making instructions available on the website. If you've joined my FREE members area you'll find a video for drafting your own skirt block. And if you're in the middle of a project and would like to make contact with your pattern making questions I have a Facebook group where you can post your photos and ask your questions.
Comment below or email direct if you have any questions.