After so many pattern alterations to the first sample pattern, I'm excited to show you how the second sample turned out. Below you can see the pattern alterations (brown paper) I made to the first sample pattern. And I've selected a cotton/linen blend for the second sample. You will find all the first sample and pattern alteration detail in this post: Sampling the Flare and Gather Dress and Pattern Alterations - Flare and Gather Dress Pattern.
I start the construction by stay-stitching my necklines and armholes (front and back) before folding and stitching the large shoulder tucks in place on the front dress.
My prep for the back dress is to sew the centre back seam and overlock the seam edges together. Press the seam in one direction before going onto the next stage.
Now add the elastic casing to the centre back waist, securing the elastic in one end and finishing off the box stitching by securing the elastic in the other end. In this case i've placed the casing on the inside of the dress so all that you see from the outside is a stitched box around the waist fitting feature.
On the front dress, run two rows of gathering stitch the full length of the right side front dress. Tie off one end of the gathering threads and pull the bobbin thread up until you have gathered the front right dress to fit the back side panel seam.
What you would like to see here is evenly distributed gathers along the whole seam before stitching the front to the back. Overlock the seam edges together and press the seam towards the back of the dress.
Sew your invisible zip (40cm) into the left side seam and join the rest of the seam below the zip. Now gather the left side skirt panel skirt and sew it onto the lower edge of the left side front and back dress.
For this sample I've finished off the neckline and armholes with contrast bias bind as an outside bind. For the hemline I've also used the same bias bind attached to the hem allowance and blind stitched into place.
I'm really beginning to like this design and think that this pattern might be worth working on to include in my on-line sewing patterns. This is what I think may have to happen before it's worthy of online status:
- A wear test would be important to make sure it's comfortable to wear on a day-to-day basis.
- I'll have to work on a short or three quarter sleeve as an alternative to the cap sleeve. Although cap sleeves really suit the Australian summer I do have many fans living in other parts of the world that would enjoy a sleeve in this design.
- And if everything looks OK I'll have this one digitised and graded so I can add it to my Pattern Puzzle sewing patterns on the website.
- And finally the mammoth task of working out how I advise everyone on making alterations to the pattern to suit individual fitting needs. That'll be one complicated post. :/