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Stretch Skirt Block and Design Options

Tuesday, April 04, 2017

Following on from the Skirt Block and Design Options post I've separated skirt designs that use a stretch skirt block to start your pattern development.  You can use my skirt block to make a stretch skirt block to use with all these pattern puzzle posts.  Some of them have been sampled and those sample posts are also included here.Stretch Skirt Block

Pattern Fundamentals - Stretch Skirt Block

Click through to this post to prepare your very own stretch skirt block from a basic skirt block.  If you don't have a skirt block to start with you can follow the instructions at the end of this blog post to self-draft your own block.

All the stretch drape skirts here!

The basic rules for a stretch skirt block are:

    1. A good, clean side seam shape (be careful not to over curve the side seam when removing the dart).
    2. No front dart in the skirt.
    3. You can leave a back dart for good shaping over the seat;  particularly if you're transferring it into drape.
    4. The block fit has negative ease - usually 4-6cm less than your body measurement.  This negative ease will vary according to the different knit fabrics you use.  The stretchier the fabric the greater the garment ease.

Pattern Puzzle - Drape Tube Skirt

In this post you'll join your stretch skirt block together at the side seams and end up with only Centre Front (CF) and Centre Back (CB) seams.  The side seam shaping and the darts are turned into drape on either the CF and CB seams.  To complete the full pattern you can add cowl drape to the lower CB seam.

Drape Tube Skirt

First Sample - Drape Tube Skirt

The example I've made as the first sample has tuck drape on the CF and CB seams.  I've also included approx. 30cm of drape along the lower CB seam (aqua sample).  In an earlier sample I added only 10cm drape (black sample) and still liked the effect in the back seam.  Understated and less dramatic than the full drape version.

Sample Drape Tube Skirt

Pattern Puzzle - Waterfall Jersey Skirt

In this pattern puzzle you'll see how the shaping from the darts and side seam are sent toward the gathered design feature at the front of the skirt.  It does make a very wide pattern if you keep the CF on the fold.  It can be cut on the other (lengthwise) grain if necessary.

Waterfall Jersey Skirt

From the old blog:

Pattern Puzzle - Mioara Cretu Outfit #2

This fabulous contribution from Mioara Cretu uses a close-fit knit block for the pattern development of the skirt and the tee shirt.  Including some wicked twisted dean work!

Twist Drape Jersey Skirt and top.

PatternPuzzle - Two Twist Skirt Patterns

This pattern puzzle features two different types of twist pattern making for skirts.  Please note they both work better for shorter skirts and not so much for longer styles.

Skirt Twist Variation

Pattern Puzzle - Skirt Twist

This skirt design will work in both woven and stretch fabrics.  Be sure your skirt block is cut to suit the fabric you intend is use.  If you're using a woven then you'll need the full 4cm garment ease in your skirt block.  If you choose to work with a stretch fabric then negative ease of -4cm is recommended.

Skirt Twist Pattern

Pattern Puzzle - Waterfall Drape Skirt

This little one-piece-wonder has all the side seam shaping and dart allowance transferred onto the front panel seam.  To fit inside the width of most fabrics the maximum width of the pattern at the top of the waterfall feature needs to be less than 150cm wide.  If necessary this pattern can be cut on the lengthwise grain.

Twist Drape Skirt Sewing pattern

Pattern Puzzle - Jersey Ruche Skirt

The success of this skirt will depend on the fit of the block you use.  To be successful, a close fit is needed to maintain the drape tension between the back of the skirt and the centre front gathering.

Jersey Drape Skirt Pattern Making
Use the comments area to let me know if you have any questions about these pattern making posts.  You can also become a member and join me in the forum for loads of nerdy pattern conversations. :)

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All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available for HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use my content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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All my sewing patterns.
These are the first of my sewing patterns as PDF downloads for you to buy and sew.  The more I sell the more time I have to make new ones.  So if you fancy supporting the work I do here on the well-suited blog, this is your opportunity.  These patterns are based on my size chart listed here on the website.


All my garment blocks.
Garment blocks are the basic template we use to make fashion patterns.  They are not patterns in themselves as they have no design detail.  My garment blocks also don't have any seam allowances as they are never sewn together once the fit is perfected.  If you look at any of my Pattern Puzzle posts you'll see that I usually start with a block then modify to achieve my new design idea.  These garment blocks are also based on my size chart as required for the mass production of fashion clothing.


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About Studio Faro

The challenging patterns, the exciting new design trends and the impossible drapes; that's what I live for.  Disclaimer: These new ideas are offered here for testing and are offered without guarantee.  Allow yourself time and space to truly test and perfect the patterns for all your new ideas.  And please don't give yourself a hard time if the first toile is less than perfect.  It's simply part of a process. Enjoy :)

Using my content

All images, designs, photos and layouts on this blog are created and owned by Anita McAdam© of Studio Faro. They are available FOR HOME AND PERSONAL USE ONLY.  If you would like to use our content for teaching or commercial purposes please ask.  I have some amazing resources for teachers and manufacturers. ;) enquiries@studiofaro.com

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