19 Aug Squares & Zero-waste First Sample
Let’s put it to the test. Many years ago I posted a pattern idea that I’d come across on Pinterest. In theory this idea has the potential of zero-waste but I’ve made a change that might limit that application to near-zero waste.
I’ve collected a bunch of soft knit fabrics thrifted from Salvos (a local charity shop) that are ideal for testing this project. I’m going to start with the 30cm x 30cm model as a light-knit, tran-seasonal top.
It ‘s possible to cut this idea as zero-waste if you’re ok sewing into a corner for the sleeve opening of the garment. However I prefer a curve for a decent flow in the sleeve opening.
The colourful rib I attached to the armhole is a great addition to this top and easily attached to the curve. I like to use a sports style stripe rib on my garments to add a casual fashion/sports vibe. However I’d suggest you don’t make it too tight. It’s important that the garment slides easily up you arm as you move. Too tight and the entire garment lifts every time you lift your arms exposing your midrift.
When you join the side seam through to the sleeve opening rib it gives a strong & definitive shape to the sleeve opening. What looks like a high pointy neckline ends up draping around your neckline. See photo below.
The 30cm x 30cm cut makes up a short garment that is 47cm from HNP to hem and sits just past the waistline. Excellent for a cropped top but I’d prefer a little more coverage.
I’ve added an extension to this top so it provides a bit more coverage if you’re not into exposing your midrift.
This red dressmakers dummy has a 101cm bust. Suits up to Au size 12 or Small size top. The actual garment measures 116cm in the bust area and a loose, generous fit is recommended.
Trying larger squares should provide more generous sizing and a longer sleeve length.
I worked the 45cm squares and ended up with a top that’s a generous medium to large but way too long for current fashion.
So I scooped up the front with wide elastic and left the back longer.
This very simple pattern has the potential to be many different garments. As long as you work with soft drapey fabric and go generous in the size of your starter square there’s a lot of fun to be had. 😉
Observations:
- Your front length will be just over one and a half times your square size.
- Hem circumference is four times your square size.
- Your over arm measurement is the same as the diagonal measurement through your square size. So for 45cm square it’s 63cm. I believe it’s the hypotenuse of that square, I think???. Much easier to simply draw up a square and measure through the diagonal.
- Make your sleeve opening a little bigger than your elbow measurement.
Pluses & minuses:
- Very easy to cut and make.
- If you cut two at a time it’s a zero-waste garment.
- Very easy to make up in different sizes and lengths for different end use.
- Makes an excellent casual garment.
- Not everyone is happy to do the calculation and testing required to get their own ideal fit.
- When you lift your arms in this top the hem rises dramatically. I made to mistake of making the sleeve rib firm and that makes it worse.
Recommendations:
- Best used for loose fit casual garments.
- Make sure the sleeve opening is generous so the garment slips up your arms as you move.
- Soft drapery knits are ideal for this make.
Going forward:
- I’d like to try this idea as a winter shrug/jacket in a wool double knit. I think it would be an excellent garment to work in because the sleeve length is around three-quarters and therefore wouldn’t get in the way as you’re working.
- As an experiment for eveningwear I’d like to make it in a voile or georgette as a shrug. It could be worn over a strapless dress or slip dress.
Let me know your ideas for this interesting pattern experiment in the comments below.
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