Well Suited

18 Jan

Posted at 10:45h in Fitting Patterns, Introductory, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Self-draft, Vintage Patterns by
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To begin, a quick recap of previous posts for the Gil Brandao, Conjunto Pratico.  You can start with the first post, the self-draft instructions for this vintage bodice.  If you think you'd like more detail you can download my detailed worksheet - Vintage Style Pattern Making.  The instructions in the worksheet include information for drafting different sizes, from 6 to 22.  If you're unable to access the worksheet there is a post where I outline the grade rules to make the original draft in to other sizes - Grade Rules - Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico.  Taking the vintage bodice further I have a post with the instructions for adding a skirt to the vintage bodice to make and wrap style dress -Vintage Bodice as Dress - Fist Sample.
Vintage Style Pattern Making

10 Nov

Posted at 13:42h in Fitting Patterns, Introductory, Sewing, Sewing Instructions, Sewing patterns by
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When you'e making your own clothes the first and most important bit of information is what size pattern you'll be using.  To work this out you need the Size Chart (body measurements used to make the patterns), your own basic body measurements (bust, waist and hips), and if possible the pattern measurements as provided by the pattern company.  My Pencil Skirt Sewing Pattern has been designed for woven cloth with no stretch and I've allowed 5cm garment ease in the fit of the hip on the skirt.  So once you know your own hip measurement it's important that the pattern you use is at least 5cm (2") larger in the hip.  This 5cm (2") is added to the pattern as garment ease for basic comfort and good fit.

29 Sep

Posted at 18:36h in Introductory, Pattern Puzzles, Sewing, Sewing Instructions, Sewing patterns by
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The fabulous thing about this pattern is that for many it can be made in a woven or a knit fabric.  The Drape Back Tunic sewing pattern is available as a one-size only pattern with instructions to increase the size and length printed on the pattern.  These images are for the sewing instructions for woven fabrics but I will make notes regarding the sewing instructions you need for knit fabrics.  If you cut this pattern as it is in a woven fabric it'll fit up to Aus Size 12.  If you cut it in a two-way (four-way in the US) stretch knit fabric that has some elastane content it can fit up to a Aus Size 22.

23 Sep

Posted at 13:10h in Intermediate, Sewing Instructions, Sewing patterns by
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It was over ten years ago that I designed and made this shirt for sale and I've had so many different versions of it in my wardrobe since.  The fit of this shirt is tailored and body conscious with a back yoke, panel seams front and back, a two-piece collar and tab, and a dinner shirt style bib in the front.  There is a short and long sleeve version with the option of cutting the sleeves on either the straight or bias grain.  The Dinner Shirt Sewing Pattern is so versatile in design as to be both a conservative work shirt and fun party shirt in the one pattern.

19 Sep

Posted at 13:27h in Grading Patterns, Introductory, Pattern Puzzles, Self-draft, Sewing Pattern Alterations, Vintage Patterns by
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The beauty of this Folk to Fashion zero-waste pattern is that you can select your fabric width to determine different sizing outcomes in the final garment.  And the length of your available fabric will determine the final length of your garment and sleeve.  This garment is an historic pattern called a Eura, believed to be worn as an undergarment around 500-1,000 AD.

30 Aug

Posted at 14:28h in Fitting Patterns, Introductory, Pattern Making Instructions, Sewing Pattern Alterations, Stretch Patterns, Using My Blocks by
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This post is specifically dedicated to working a full bust adjustment (FBA) on my knit block.  This particular pattern alteration is important for anyone with a bra cup size above B & C.  Because we are working with knit, I'd prefer not to include a dart in any of my knit patterns.  If you add a Full Bust Adjustment to a woven pattern you'll usually end up with a side seam dart.  For knit patterns I have a different way of dealing with the extra fabric that results from an FBA and that would usually become a dart.
All details following:

24 Apr

Posted at 13:31h in Introductory, Sewing Instructions, Sewing patterns by
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The Japan Skirt has it's origin in Japanese folk costume.  It's based on a simple rectangle of fabric, wrapped around the waist.  In this case I've finessed the fit on the waist by including a dart shape in the zip/drape seam.  Even with the dart you'll find the waist of the skirt is positioned more in the low waist area, and is not a tight fit.  If you would like to create a closer fit on the waist you'll find all the details at the end of this post.

28 Sep

Posted at 13:31h in Creative Pattern Making, Introductory, Sewing Instructions, Sewing patterns, Stretch Patterns by
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The Hip Twist Sewing Pattern has been a long time in coming, and I thank all of you for your patience.  The past few months have been less than usual and I've had my focus diverted on other projects closer to home.  Now it's such a pleasure to get back to business and deal with all my wonderful patterns.  You'll get the best results with this pattern by using two-way stretch knit (four-way stretch in the US) that has elastane content (Lycra, Spandex).  I have achieved the best results with rayon, polyester and wool knits with elastane.  Some cotton knits may work if they are not too stiff.
Hip Twist Top Sewing Pattern (PDF download)

30 May

Posted at 14:07h in Introductory, Sewing, Sewing Instructions, Sewing patterns by
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The Pencil Skirt Sewing Pattern is an absolute classic for your wardrobe.  The complete sewing pattern has a full lining pattern included in the download.  However when you first receive the pattern it is my recommendation that your first make is an unlined version so you have an opportunity to test the fit and make of this new pattern.  For an unlined skirt, I would recommend a medium weight woven fabric and have made myself several version using both quality cotton prints from heirloom cotton patchwork fabrics and stunning African print cotton.  These skirts make the most ideal summer skirts.
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